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was an altogether ideal valet de place; and I was glad enough to

leave my Murray at home; and gather facts and opinions alike from his

gossiping commentary。  He talked of Florence like a lover; and

admitted that it was a very old affair; he had lost his heart to her

at first sight。  〃It's the fashion to talk of all cities as

feminine;〃 he said; 〃but; as a rule; it's a monstrous mistake。  Is

Florence of the same sex as New York; as Chicago?  She is the sole

perfect lady of them all; one feels towards her as a lad in his teens

feels to some beautiful older woman with a 'history。'  She fills you

with a sort of aspiring gallantry。〃  This disinterested passion

seemed to stand my friend in stead of the common social ties; he led

a lonely life; and cared for nothing but his work。  I was duly

flattered by his having taken my frivolous self into his favour; and

by his generous sacrifice of precious hours to my society。  We spent

many of these hours among those early paintings in which Florence is

so rich; returning ever and anon; with restless sympathies; to wonder

whether these tender blossoms of art had not a vital fragrance and

savour more precious than the full…fruited knowledge of the later

works。  We lingered often in the sepulchral chapel of San Lorenzo;

and watched Michael Angelo's dim…visaged warrior sitting there like

some awful Genius of Doubt and brooding behind his eternal mask upon

the mysteries of life。  We stood more than once in the little convent

chambers where Fra Angelico wrought as if an angel indeed had held

his hand; and gathered that sense of scattered dews and early bird…

notes which makes an hour among his relics seem like a morning stroll

in some monkish garden。  We did all this and much morewandered into

dark chapels; damp courts; and dusty palace…rooms; in quest of

lingering hints of fresco and lurking treasures of carving。



I was more and more impressed with my companion's remarkable

singleness of purpose。  Everything was a pretext for some wildly

idealistic rhapsody or reverie。  Nothing could be seen or said that

did not lead him sooner or later to a glowing discourse on the true;

the beautiful; and the good。  If my friend was not a genius; he was

certainly a monomaniac; and I found as great a fascination in

watching the odd lights and shades of his character as if he had been

a creature from another planet。  He seemed; indeed; to know very

little of this one; and lived and moved altogether in his own little

province of art。  A creature more unsullied by the world it is

impossible to conceive; and I often thought it a flaw in his artistic

character that he had not a harmless vice or two。  It amused me

greatly at times to think that he was of our shrewd Yankee race; but;

after all; there could be no better token of his American origin than

this high aesthetic fever。  The very heat of his devotion was a sign

of conversion; those born to European opportunity manage better to

reconcile enthusiasm with comfort。  He had; moreover; all our native

mistrust for intellectual discretion; and our native relish for

sonorous superlatives。  As a critic he was very much more generous

than just; and his mildest terms of approbation were 〃stupendous;〃

〃transcendent;〃 and 〃incomparable。〃  The small change of admiration

seemed to him no coin for a gentleman to handle; and yet; frank as he

was intellectually; he was personally altogether a mystery。  His

professions; somehow; were all half…professions; and his allusions to

his work and circumstances left something dimly ambiguous in the

background。  He was modest and proud; and never spoke of his domestic

matters。  He was evidently poor; yet he must have had some slender

independence; since he could afford to make so merry over the fact

that his culture of ideal beauty had never brought him a penny。  His

poverty; I supposed; was his motive for neither inviting me to his

lodging nor mentioning its whereabouts。  We met either in some public

place or at my hotel; where I entertained him as freely as I might

without appearing to be prompted by charity。  He seemed always

hungry; and this was his nearest approach to human grossness。  I made

a point of asking no impertinent questions; but; each time we met; I

ventured to make some respectful allusion to the magnum opus; to

inquire; as it were; as to its health and progress。  〃We are getting

on; with the Lord's help;〃 he would say; with a grave smile。  〃We are

doing well。  You see; I have the grand advantage that I lose no time。

These hours I spend with you are pure profit。  They are SUGGESTIVE!

Just as the truly religious soul is always at worship; the genuine

artist is always in labour。  He takes his property wherever he finds

it; and learns some precious secret from every object that stands up

in the light。  If you but knew the rapture of observation!  I gather

with every glance some hint for light; for colour; or relief!  When I

get home; I pour out my treasures into the lap of toy Madonna。  Oh; I

am not idle!  Nulla dies sine linea。〃



I was introduced in Florence to an American lady whose drawing…room

had long formed an attractive place of reunion for the foreign

residents。  She lived on a fourth floor; and she was not rich; but

she offered her visitors very good tea; little cakes at option; and

conversation not quite to match。  Her conversation had mainly an

aesthetic flavour; for Mrs。 Coventry was famously ''artistic。〃  Her

apartment was a sort of Pitti Palace au petit pied。  She possessed

〃early masters〃 by the dozena cluster of Peruginos in her dining…

room; a Giotto in her boudoir; an Andrea del Sarto over her drawing…

room chimney…piece。  Surrounded by these treasures; and by

innumerable bronzes; mosaics; majolica dishes; and little worm…eaten

diptychs covered with angular saints on gilded backgrounds; our

hostess enjoyed the dignity of a sort of high…priestess of the arts。

She always wore on her bosom a huge miniature copy of the Madonna

della Seggiola。  Gaining her ear quietly one evening; I asked her

whether she knew that remarkable man; Mr。 Theobald。



〃Know him!〃 she exclaimed; 〃know poor Theobald!  All Florence knows

him; his flame…coloured locks; his black velvet coat; his

interminable harangues on the beautiful; and his wondrous Madonna

that mortal eye has never seen; and that mortal patience has quite

given up expecting。〃



〃Really;〃 I cried; 〃you don't believe in his Madonna?〃



〃My dear ingenuous youth;〃 rejoined my shrewd friend; 〃has he made a

convert of you?  Well; we all believed in him once; he came down upon

Florence and took the town by storm。  Another Raphael; at the very

least; had been born among men; and the poor dear United States were

to have the credit of him。  Hadn't he the very hair of Raphael

flowing down on his shoulders?  The hair; alas; but not the head!  We

swallowed him whole; however; we hung upon his lips and proclaimed

his genius on the house…tops。  The women were all dying to sit to him

for their portraits and be made immortal; like Leonardo's Joconde。

We decided that his manner was a good deal like Leonardo's

mysterious; and inscrutable; and fascinating。  Mysterious it

certainly was; mystery was the beginning and the end of it。  The

months passed by; and the miracle hung fire; our master never

produced his masterpiece。  He passed hours in the galleries and

churches; posturing; musing; and gazing; he talked more than ever

about the beautiful; but he never put brush to canvas。  We had all

subscribed; as it were; to the great performance; but as it never

came off people began to ask for their money again。  I was one of the

last of the faithful; I carried devotion so far as to sit to him for

my head。  If you could have seen the horrible creature he made of me;

you would admit that even a woman with no more vanity than will tie

her bonnet straight must have cooled off then。  The man didn't know

the very alphabet of drawing!  His strong point; he intimated; was

his sentiment; but is it a consolation; when one has been painted a

fright; to know it has been done with peculiar gusto?  One by one; I

confess; we fell away from the faith; and Mr。 Theobald didn't lift

his little finger to preserve us。  At the first hint that we were

tired of waiting; and that we should like the show to begin; he was

off in a huff。  'Great work requires time; contemplation; privacy;

mystery!  O ye of little faith!'  We answered that we didn't insist

on a great work; that the five…act tragedy might come at his

convenience; that we merely asked for something to keep us from

yawning; some inexpensive little lever de rideau。  Hereupon the poor

man took his stand as a genius misconceived and persecuted; an ame

meconnue; and washed his hands of us from that hour!  No; I believe

he does me the honour to consider me the head and front of the

conspiracy formed to nip his glory in the buda bud that has taken

twenty years to blosso

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