the grand canyon of arizona-第27部分
按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
The Havasupais。 The Havasupais are of still another stock。 They belong to the Yuman family； and are kin to the Wallapais； the Mohaves； Yumas and Cocopahs of the Colorado River。
Comparison of Three Races。 In appearance； the Hopi and Havasupai are more alike than either are like to the Navaho。 As a rule； the Hopi is well built and stalwart； with the unmistakable Indian face； but with less coarse and sensual lips； higher and more intellectual brow； more alert and kindly eye； and stronger chin than the Havasupai。 The lobes of the nostril are wide and flexible； showing the wonderful lung power of this great running people。
The Navaho shows； in the build of his flexible body； that he is a horseman； a rider。 His face is one of the strongest of Indian types； and is distinctive and easily recognizable； as a rule。 With high cheek bones； strong square jaws； flexible； thin lips； large； limpid eyes and expansive brows； the tribe shows a high order of intelligence； and while at rest； their faces are kindly and inviting。 There is a flash in the eye when aroused that denotes great pride； absolute fearlessness and hatred of control。 It is a race of warriors； a race that for two centuries harried the Spaniards as well as the gentle Hopi； whom they regarded as their legitimate prey。
Costumes of Hopi Men。 In dress； these three peoples are distinctive； though in these days of part civilization and close contact with the whites； the true Indian costume is being discarded for the conventional dress of the latter。 The Hopi men generally wear the true pueblo costume。 In olden days； it was the buckskin shirt and trousers； with a blanket over all。 Now； the trousers are generally of white calico； with a slit on the sides from the knee down。 A calico shirt is worn。 The stockings are of blue wool； without feet。 Moccasins； with a sole of thick rawhide and uppers of dressed buckskin； are worn。 The invariable silk handkerchief； or red bandana 〃bands〃 surrounds the hair； which is cut long； generally long enough barely to reach the shoulders。
Costumes of Hopi Women。 The women's native dress is most picturesque； and far more adhered to than that of the men。 The main dress is a welt…woven blanket of deep blue； sometimes with slight red decoration； which is fastened over the left shoulder and down the left side。 The right shoulder is left bare； unless； as invariably is the case with the Indians who associate much with the whites； a light calico shirt is worn under the dress。 It reaches to below the knees； and is encircled around the waist by a broad home…woven sash； which is wrapped two or three times around the body； and has the end carelessly tucked in。 The feet are covered with moccasins； to which are attached swathings of buckskin； which are wrapped around and around the legs； until they are as large as ordinary sized stovepipes。 The hair is worn in peculiar fashion； that symbolizes the social condition of the wearer。 At puberty a maiden is required by the inflexible rule of the tribe to dress her hair in two great whorlsone over each earcalled 〃nashmi。〃 These are in imitation of the squash blossom； which is the Hopi symbol of maidenhood and purity。 When she marries； she must change the fashion of dressing the hair into two pendant rolls； in imitation of the fruit of the squash； which is their emblem or symbol for matronhood and chastity。
Navaho Men's Costumes。 The old time Navaho men wear the white calico trousers； slit up the side； and a shirt； either of colored calico or of some kind of velvet cloth。 On the feet are moccasins； and the stockings are the same footless kind as worn by the Hopi； fastened below the knee with a wide garter。 This is made in the same style as the sashes which the Hopi and Navaho women wear around their waists； but is neither so broad nor so long。 The hair is either allowed to flow loosely over the shoulders； or is arranged in a kind of square knot at the back of the head。 As a basis for this knot； a hairpin made of bone； from three to five inches long； smoothed almost flat； with beveled or rounded edges； and often rudely carved； is used。 Around this knot a sash similar to a garter is generally wrapped to secure it。 The universal bands is worn around the head to help bind the hair； and keep it away from the forehead。
Navaho Women's Costume。 The women wear a brown； green； or red velvet shirt； with a 〃squaw dress〃 beautifully woven of deep blue cotton； with a conventionally designed red border。 Around the waist the wide sash； before described； is wound。 This dress is both skirt and waist； but of late years those women who live in or near our civilization discard their native dress； and wear a skirt of calico； with the velvet shirt。
The Havasupai Dress。 The Havasupai men and women now wear as near the conventional dress of our race as their means will allow。 When I first knew them； the men seldom wore more than a pair of moccasins and a breechcloth in summer； with buckskin shirt and trousers； and a Navaho blanket over the shoulders in winter。 The conventional dress of the women at that time was a skirt made of shredded cedar bark； which was suspended from the waist to below the knees； without shirt or shirt…waist。 In winter； a Navaho blanket was worn over the shoulders。 Both men and women still wear the inevitable moccasins； though the 〃civilized〃 members of the tribe buy their shoes at the white man's store in Williams； Ash Fork or Seligman。 The women generally bang their hair across； about the center of the forehead； and then allow the rest of the hair to hang loose。 It is a great insult to a Havasupai woman to ask her to throw back her hair from her cheeks； and to do it oneself is a serious offense。
Language。 In language； these people are as different one from another as are the Turks； the Esquimaux and the French。 Even in the simplest words these differences are marked。 Take a few comparisons。 For good the Hopi says lolomai； the Navaho yatehay and the Havasupai harnegie。 Bad in Hopi is ka…lolomai （not good）； Navaho da shonda （of the evil one）； Havasupai han…a…to…opo…gi。
CHAPTER XVII。 The Navaho And Hopi Blanket Weavers
What a marvelous art is that of weaving； and how much the human race of today owes to the patient endeavors of the 〃little brown woman〃 of the past for the perfection to which she brought this；one of the most primitive of the arts。
Blanketry was a necessary outcome of basketry。 The use of flexible twigs for baskets readily suggested the use of pliable fibres for textiles； and there is little question that almost simultaneously with the first rude baskets the first textile fabrics made their appearance。
Whence the art had its origin we do not know。 But it is a matter of record that in this country； three hundred and fifty years ago； when the Spanish first came into what is now United States territory； they found the art of weaving in a well advanced stage among the domestic and sedentary Pueblo Indians； and the wild and nomadic Navahos。 Scientists who have given the question careful study； hold that the cotton of these blankets was grown by these Arizona Indians from time immemorial； and they also used the tough fibres of the yucca and agave leaves and the hairs of various wild animals； either separately or with the cotton。 Their processes of weaving were exactly the same then as they are today； there being but slight difference between the methods followed before the advent of the whites and afterward。 Hence； in a study of the Indian blanket； as it is made today； we are approximately nearly to the pure aboriginal method of pre…Columbian times。
Archeologists and ethnologists generally assume that the art of weaving on the loom was learned by the Navahos from their Pueblo neighbors。 All the facts in the case seem to bear out this supposition。 Yet； as is well known； the Navahos are a part of the great Athabascan family； which has scattered； by separate migrations； from Alaska into California； Arizona and New Mexico。 Many of the Alaskans are good weavers； and according to Navaho traditions； their ancestors； when they came into the country； wore blankets that were made of cedar bark and yucca fibre。 Even in the Alaska （Thlinket） blankets； made today of the wool of the white mountain goat； cedar bark is twisted in with the wool of the warp。 Why； then； should not the Navaho woman have brought the art of weaving； possibly in a very primitive stage； from her original Alaskan home？ That her art； however； has been improved by her contact with the Pueblo and other Indians； there can be no question； and； if she had a crude loom； it was speedily replaced by the one so long used by the Pueblo。 Where the Pueblo weaver gained her loom we do not know； whether from the tribes of the South or by her own invention。 But in all practical ways the primitive loom was as complete and perfect at the time of the Spanish conquest as it is today。
Any loom； to be complete； must possess certain qualifications。 As Dr。 Mason has well said： 〃In any style of mechanical weaving； however simple or complex； even in darning； the following operations are performed： First； raising and lowering alternately different sets of warp filaments to form the 'sheds'； second； throwing the shuttle； or performing some operation that a
