the grand canyon of arizona-第20部分
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nks and lower branches so densely matted together as to form a good shelter on two sides from the wind （which blows furiously）。 It is in this shelter that I place my bed； making with my canvas a protection against the wind on the third side so that my sleeping place is as cozy and warm as can be。
〃Friday； Sept。 6； 1901。 At Point Sublime。 I sleep well and wake refreshed。 Many photographs are taken。 The men go to explore another point not far off and I stay in camp。 I rest as well as I can in the face of such a stupendous spectacle。 Dutton's descriptions are wonderfully vivid and accurateyet words； do not convey ideas to those whose imagination is not large enough to realize the full meaning of the words。
On the Return。 〃We start on the return at eleven o'clock having spent about seventeen hours on the Point。 At first we follow the trail by which we came。 Then our leader disregards the trail and makes our course in a more direct line。 We go over ridges； some of them terribly steep。 We go through several lovely valleys with the ridges that overlook the canyon on our left。 The air is still and cool down where we are； but we can see the tops of the trees that show above the ridges tossed about in a violent wind and can hear its roaring through the forest。 We camp about three…quarters of a mile from a spring； and by orders I sleep under a tree in company with many beetles。 It is very cold。 Camp…fire is comforting。
Into the Canyon Again。 〃Saturday； Sept。 7； 1901。 We leave camp at 8：20。 I put out fire while men are packing。 Find track of small five…toed animal on the trail。 We go by cattle…trails a short cut to Swamp Point through the forest； over ridges； through thickets and some of the grassy valleys。 Out on Swamp Point again I am shown Bass Camp on the south rim。 It is scarcely discernible even with glasses； the distance is so vast。 We all walk down the steep descent from this Point and make quick time to the place where we camped Sept。 3。 We descend one thousand nine hundred feet in one hour and twenty minutes。 After lunch； the men then cache much of the remaining provisions and cooking outfit for future use； and we go on riding as fast as possible down the dry bed of the stream。 Then out of this； through a narrow canyon； past the gray…rock walls and gulch with black cave at bottom and slide in the talus above； over the fertile plateau； long descent on foot； where as I zigzag I see the men and the burros what seem to be hundreds of feet below。
〃On down another dry stream bed； many stony descents in a shut…in canyon。 Out of this into more open country； but over ridges； up and down。 We come down to that part of the trail which I feared most in daylight and now we have only the starlight to enable us to descend。 Mr。 Bass takes me in charge and Mr。 James goes up over the ridges to round up the burros which have been left to their own devices。 A torch of sage…brush is lighted to find the trail。 At last we reach the bottom。 The men throw some blankets on the ground for me and I fall upon them。 They go down to the Shinumo； which is only a few yards away； prepare supper and bring a cup of hot coffee for me。 I return with them； make my bed； eat a hearty supper and then fall asleep with the roar of the Shinumo in my ears。 My bed is comfortable and I have a feeling of perfect safety and confidence。
Watermelons in the Canyon。 〃Sunday； Sept。 8； 1901。 We are on the Shinumo； and only half an hour's ride above the camp。 What a beautiful stream it is； cataracts； still reaches； rapids； sandy shoals； deep pools； and the water so pure； blue and clear。 We cross and re…cross many times； through thickets of willow and mesquite。 I am many times scratched and my hat is forcibly snatched from my head。 At camp I feed watermelon rinds to Belshazzar who receives them as gratefully as I did the melons。 How strange to find them growing here；so ripe； rich and delicious。 I feel very weary but deeply regret having to leave this lovely place。 We start for the river。 When the others arrive the packs； etc。； are taken across in three loads。 The four of us go over in the last load。 Scramble up the Archaean by myself and sit in the shade； near the shelter tent； until I am put on the burro Joe and started off with the doctor。
Back at Bass Camp。 〃Dad had brought the burros here to receive us； all the animals we had ridden to Point Sublime having been left on the north side。 At Bed Rock Camp we all have lunch； and then at 4：00； the others with the burros having gone on ahead； we follow。 I remain on my burro all the way up； save at three places； where Mr。 James deems it best for me to dismount。 At last； we make the final ascent； I see the tent above my head； then the roof of the house at Bass Camp； and in another moment or two the most memorable and wonderful trip of my life is over。〃
CHAPTER XIII。 How The Canyon Was Formed*
* This chapter； while in manuscript； was read by Dr。 Charles D。 Walcott； Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution and formerly Director of the United States Geological Survey； and also by Professor Matthis； of the Survey。 It may therefore be accepted as a fairly accurate and authoritative presentation of the geological conditions existent at the Canyon； with their explanations； as accepted by the leading scientists of to…day。
The beginning of land。 In the long ago centuries； when the world was 〃without form and void；〃 waters covered the face of the earth； and darkness brooded over the waters。 As the earth's crust began to shrink under the water； in the process of cooling； the first masses to crumple up； to wrinkle； were the first to arise above the surface of the vast； primeval； shoreless ocean。 They appeared as tiny islands； pinnacles； or ridges thrust up； exactly as we see them sometimes on the coast；hidden at high tide； appearing again at low tide。
The Laurentian Hills。 Nature had plenty of time before her； so she did not hurry her work； and it took long centuries before there was any large amount of land thrust up out of the bosom of the sea。 The scientists are able to tell us； with some definiteness； which came forth first。 They say that on the continent of America the earliest born land was a mass of granitic rock in Canada；the Laurentian Hills。 The next to peer above the surface and feel the warmth of the sun were peaks and ridges that made islands of themselves； in what are now known as the Rocky Mountains and the Appalachians。 Now； at last； the great waves of the sea and the resistless storms had something to play with； and they pounced down upon the land as with tooth and claw。 They rubbed and pounded； raged and smashed for a thousand years； and then another thousand； and still another； while Mother Earth uneasily thrust forth her rocky children out of the ocean into the light of day。 Surprised at such treatment by the storms and seas； the newly born earth masses began to crumble and 〃weather。〃 The detached fragments slipped back； or were washed back； into the deeper or shallower parts of the ocean； and were there tossed back and forth； pounded and ground into sand and silt； into pebbles and boulders； while more land was slowly being thrust out for the angry sea to work upon。 Layer by layer； the ground…up masses were deposited in the inner ocean bed； parts of which were now practically shut off from the vast ocean beyond。 How many centuries of centuries this process continued geologists do not tell us。 Time is so vast； so long； that they cannot divide those early days into weeks； months and years； as we now do。
The Continent is born。 After many millions of tons had been thus ground up and tossed about and mingled with the waters of the seas； the earth； in a fit of fiery anger； turned and baked them； with intense heat； out of all semblance to their former appearance。 These baked masses； in the course of time； were thrust up out of the seas； mashed and macerated once more； again deposited as sand； silt； pebbles and boulders； and again burned。 These processes followed each other； how many times we do not know； the earth all the while keeping up her steady uplift of the children of her bosom out of the great sea。 Higher and higher came the land。 Further and further receded the sea； until； in due course； the sun shone upon a vast area of land that was the rude skeleton of what is now the continent of North America。
It would have taken a keen eye； however； to have imagined from that which we see to…day what was there。 The Gulf of California reached far up； even into Nevada； and covered what are now the Mohave and Colorado Deserts； there was no California Coast Range； the Gulf of Mexico was vastly larger than it is to…day； covering all Florida； and reaching up the Mississippi Valley half…way to the Great Lakes。
The First Strata。 It was just preceding the last uplift of this epoch that the era of deposition of rock debris was so prolonged that twelve thousand feet of strata were washed into the bed of the sea； in the region now known as the Grand Canyon Country。 It was at the time when life was beginning to dawn； for in the remnants of the strata are found fossils of the earliest known life。 These strata； therefore； are of immense interest to the geologist； as they are the first known rocks containing life to emer
