the grand canyon of arizona-第19部分

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〃Mr。　Bass　and　Dad　go　off　to　hunt　for　the　horses　and　mules　we　are　to　use　on　the　trip。　The　burros　will　not　travel　fast　enough；　though　they　are　going　to　put　me　on　a　large　burro　they　name　Belshazzar。

〃After　lunch　each　spends　the　afternoon　as　he　chooses。　Mr。　James　invites　me　to　come　and　visit　a　snuggery　that　he　has　established；　where　I　find　him　writing。　He　reads　what　he　has　written；　also　part　of　Browning's　'Rabbi　Ben　Ezra。'

〃Tuesday；　Sept。　3；　1901。　At　and　preparing　to　leave　Shinumo。　The　magnitude　of　the　undertaking　appalls　me。　It　is　so　much　more　tremendous　than　I　anticipated。

The　Start。　〃The　saddling　and　packing　of　the　animals　occupies　much　time。　We　start　about　nine　o'clock　with　nine　animals；　six　burros；　two　horses　and　one　mule。　My　Belshazzar　is　slow　but　very　sure。　Mr。　James　rides　the　mule；　a　red　creature；　very　nervous　and　excitable　and　which　they　tell　me　is　not　well　broken　and　does　not　like　to　be　ridden。

Ascending　the　Trail。　〃We　go　up　a　long　trail　over　a　ridge；　with　loose　soil；　quite　barren。　The　ascent　is　not　very　steep　but　the　hillside　across　which　the　trail　passes　slopes　down　to　canyons　and　precipices　which　suggest　unfathomable　depths。　At　one　place　the　trail；　for　about　fifty　feet；　is　over　ashes　or　some　exceedingly　loose　material　that　allows　the　animals　to　slide　very　quickly　down　towards　the　deep　precipice　on　the　right　and　the　sight　is　most　trying　to　my　nerves；　but　Belshazzar's　deliberate　walk　and　sure…footedness　soon　restore　my　usual　equanimity。

〃From　this　we　pass　into　a　canyon　or　series　of　canyons　where　one　can　plainly　see　that　in　the　remote　past　a　torrent　has　poured　down；　tearing　away　the　soil　and　tossing　huge　boulders　about。　Many　naked　rocky　ledges　show；　and　my　burro　is　occasionally　required　to　carry　me　up　stone　steps。

Muav　Canyon。　〃Presently　we　enter　a　narrow　canyon　through　which　flows　a　clear；　cool　stream。　Walls　of　red　rock　on　both　sides　with；　much　gray　stone。　Many　large　sycamores；　cottonwoods　and　alders；　grass　and　flowers；　with　maidenhair　ferns　on　the　rocks。　We　stop　for　lunch　under　a　big　cottonwood　tree。　About　four　thousand　five　hundred　feet　elevation。　We　leave　this　lovely　spot　and　go　up　the　canyon　which　makes　a　sharp　turn　to　the　left。　This　is　Muav　Canyon。

Climbing　Higher。　〃After　a　little　distance　we　emerge　from　this　canyon　and　leave　the　stream。　Then　begins　a　tremendous　climb　which　I　accomplish　by　clinging　to　the　coat　tails　of　the　guide　with　one　hand　and　sometimes　with　both　hands；　he　holding　tight　to　the　burro's　tail　ahead　of　him。　Belshazzar　accepts　thisto　menovel　situation　with　accustomed　cheerfulness　and　does　his　best　to　haul　us　up　the　mountain；　stopping　occasionally　to　recover　his　breath。　Finishing　this　part　of　the　ascent；　we　come　to　a　fertile　plateau　with　trees　in　great　number　and　variety。　At　an　angle　of　the　canyon　below；　nearly　opposite　the　steep　trail　up　which　we　have　just　climbed；　is　the　eroded　terminus　of　a　great　promontory；　carved　into　a　high　and　slender　pedestal　upon　which　stands　a　rude　figure　not　unlike　one　of　the　wooden　statues　seen　in　the　old　Franciscan　missions　of　California。　Below　this　the　rock　strata　are　curved　and　twisted　into　all　kinds　of　shapes。　In　one　place　there　is　a　fold　where　the　strata　seem　to　have　been　curved　and　forced　almost　into　a　circle。

〃On　this　plateau　we　still　see　the　canyon　with　its　perpendicular　gray　stone　walls。　It　falls　below　our　trail　and　we　ride　along　the　brink　of　it　and　down　in　the　bottom　see　the　black　entrance　to　a　cave。　Then　we　come　to　the　dry　bed　of　a　stream　which　we　follow　until　we　come　to　water。　The　quantity　is　small　but　it　is　sweet　and　pure。　We　camp　here；　elevation　six　thousand　one　hundred　feet。

〃The　canyon　walls　are　steep　and　the　bottom　narrow。　We　are　in　a　heap　together；rolls　of　bedding；　camp…fire；　burros；　horses；　mules；　men；　kyacks　containing　food；　saddles　and　packs；　myself；　etc。；　all　in　a　very　small　space。

The　Charm　of　the　North　Side。　〃The　north　side　of　the　canyon　is　much　more　beautiful　and　diversified　than　the　other；　and　no　one　can　really　know　the　canyon　who　does　not　cross　and　climb　to　the　summit　on　this　side。　There　is　a　greater　variety　of　fine　views；　a　good　proportion　of　fertile　country　and　a　far　better　opportunity　for　studying　the　geological　formation。

〃Wednesday；　Sept。　4；　1901。　We　have　had　a　very　cold　night　and　though　my　bed　was　most　comfortable　I　awake　feeling　rather　miserable。　My　courage　almost　fails　and　I　talk　of　giving　up；　but　after　awhile　feel　better　and　decide　to　go　on。

〃A　discussion　goes　on　as　to　the　time　we　shall　spend　on　the　trip　and　the　determination　is　finally　reached　that；　if　possible；　we　shall　return　to　this　spot　from　Point　Sublime　in　four　days。

〃The　little　stream；　which　failed　in　the　night；　now　runs　freely；　the　result　of　condensation　of　moisture　in　the　atmosphere　above。　We　start　again　and　ascend　a　steep；　loose　trail　in　the　manner　of　yesterday。　The　trail　is　very　pleasant　here；　springs　of　excellent　water　coming　out　from　under　the　cross…bedded　sandstone　and　trees　of　considerable　size　shadowing　the　way。

The　Saddle。　〃At　the　Saddle　there　is　a　long　pause　for　repacking　the　burros。　I　am　started　up　the　next　and　last　steep　climb　on　my　burro。　After　a　little　the　trail　becomes　very　steep　and　dangerous　looking　and　I　am　ordered　to　dismount　and　finish　the　climb　on　my　feet　with　the　aid　of　Belshazzar's　tail。　He　is　in　a　hurry　and　sometimes　very　unceremonious　with　me。

On　the　Kaibab。　〃We　are　now　on　the　top　of　the　north　side；really　on　the　summit　of　the　Kaibab　Plateau。　Dutton　Point；　the　great　salient　promontory　of　Powell　Plateau；　seen　so　clearly　from　Bass　Camp　on　the　south　rim；　is　close　before　me；　and　views　and　vistas　in　every　direction　are　glorious　and　sublime。　We　ride　on　to　Swamp　Point。　The　views　are　magnificent；　but　who　shall　attempt　to　describe　them？　We　soon　enter　a　pine　forest。　Tall　pine　trees　and　Douglas　spruces　are　the　principal　trees；　with　many　beautiful　groups　of　white　aspen。　Rich　grass　and　wild　oats　and　great　quantities　of　beautiful　flowers。　We　see　many　deer。　We　stop　for　lunch　and　some　photographing　is　done。

Kanab　Unats。　〃After　lunch　we　start　for　Kanab　Unats　and　pass　through　many　grassy　valleys　leading　into　one　another　with　many　windings。　We　have　some　difficulty　in　keeping　the　right　trail。　Mr。　Bass　has　an　excellent　general　knowledge　of　the　right　direction　but　he　has　had　to　wander　to　and　fro　in　his　desire　to　find　water　and　dare　not　leave　us；　so　we　have　to　accompany　him　in　his　searches。　The　result　is　we　cannot　reach　Kanab　Unats　to…night。　We　go　up　one　very　picturesque　part　of　the　trail　where　a　deep　gulch　lies　on　the　right　filled　with　old　pine　trees　and　many　fallen　ones；　a　true　specimen　of　the　primeval　forest。　We　see　a　small　band　of　cattle　grazing。　After　luncheon　I　attempt　to　walk　alone　in　the　forest　and　immediately　lose　my　sense　of　direction。　After　some　yelling　on　my　part　the　men　come　to　my　rescue。　We　start　on　again；　the　doctor　putting　the　saddle　on　Belshazzar　for　me。　When　I　dismount；　the　result　of　unskilled　effort　appears；　for；　as　soon　as　I　throw　my　weight　over　to　the　left；　the　saddle　turns　and　I　am　dumped　upon　the　ground。　We　camp　at　an　altitude　of　eight　thousand　feet；　short　of　water。

Short　of　Water。　〃Thursday；　Sept。　5；　1901。　Near　Kanab　Unats。　6　A。　M。　Very　cold。　Breakfast　is　prepared。　I　am　allowed　two　tablespoonfuls　of　water　for　toilet　purposes。　I　help　a　little　with　the　cooking。　We　are　to　a　thick　wood。　It　is　a　fine；　clear；　sunny　day；　but　a　chilling　wind　is　blowing。

Off　for　Water。　〃We　make　a　late　start；　and　go　on　to　Kanab　Unats　where　we　expect　to　find　water。　We　arrive　there　about　ten。　Soon　afterwards　three　cattlemen　come　by。　A　conference　with　them　is　held。　They　talk　doubtfully　about　water；　but　tell　where　they　think　it　may　be　found。　They　are　much　surprised　to　hear　that　I　have　crossed　the　Canyon。　With　their　consent　I　kodak　them。　After　they　depart　Mr。　Bass　and　Mr。　James　start　off　for　water；　Mr。　Bass　with　one　horse　and　all　the　canteens　to　a　spring　he　knows　of　where　fine　water　is　to　be　had；　and　Mr。　James　with　all　the　animals　to　a　place　where　water　fit　for　stock　may　be　found。　They　both　return　in　about　two　hours；　pack　the　animals；　and　we　start　again　about　3：20　P。M。　for　Point　Sublime。　We　go　through　several　grassy；　well…wooded　ravines；　very　nearly　on　a　level；　through　much　fallen　timber　and　thickets。　Then　we　cross　several　of　them。　I　scramble　down　off　Belshazzar　and　down　a　very　steep　hill。　Mount　again　and　go　on　by　myself；　zigzagging　up　a　steep　hill。　This　is　mostly　through　an　oak　thicket　without　a　trail。　Over　another　ravine　and　I　am　sure　now　we　are　near　the　end　of　our　journey。　Up　another　slight　ascent　and　we　come　in　sight　of　the　Canyon。　We　have　left　the　tall　trees　and　the　thick　grass；　and　now　have　only　mesquites；　cedars；　yucca　and　cactus。　But　we　have　a　good　trail。

On　Point　Sublime。　〃At　last　we　are　on　the　Point　itself。　So　ardently　desired；　and　with　only　an　hour　of　daylight　left；　we　begin　to　study　the　wonderful　panorama。　I　am　photographed　rounding　up　the　burros。　I　am　given　a　sheltered　place　under　a　juniper　tree　for　my　bed；　and　make　an　arrangement　with　my　canvas　to　keep　off　the　wind。　A　very　comfortable　bed。　This　Point　runs　out　far　into　the　chasm；　is　narrow　for　a　considerable　distance；　sides　very　precipitous　and　the　edges　describing　a　very　irregular　line。　Very　near　the　extreme　end　is　a　clump　of　cedars；　with　trunks　and　lower　branches　so　densely