the grand canyon of arizona-第12部分
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to the chat of the miners and guide； hear them recount some of their thrilling and exciting experiences； enjoy their singing of old…time melodies； with a peculiar western flavor to them； and then roll over to dreamless sleep。
Copper Mines。 Half a day can be well spent on the morrow in the mines； and one is surprised to find here over half a mile of tunnels and shafts； with workings on seven levels； and ore so rich that under usual conditions it pays to mine； sort； pack on mules three miles or a little more to the rim； place in wagons； haul some fifteen or twenty miles to Apex； load on railway cars and shippaying full freight； of courseabout six hundred and eighty miles to El Paso； Texas； where it is 〃milled；〃 and the copper； silver and gold extracted。 These various processes are expensive。 It costs to buy grain in Flagstaff； or Phoenix； and pay freight on it to Apex； and then haul it to the head of the trail； and thence to the stables on the plateau near the mine。 Hay； too； has to come just as far。 Every pound of the provisions used by the men has to be hauled in similar fashion over railroad； wagon road and canyon trail。 Every pick； shovel； piece of iron or woodwork； every pound of powder； dynamite and fuse； every box of candles has to pay toll in like fashion； before it can be used in the mine。 So we are not surprised to learn that the ore is rich； the first thousand tons mined going as high as thirty percent in copper； with several ounces of silver to the ton； and small but appreciable and valuable traces of gold。 （At the time of this writing； the mines are temporarily shut down。）
To the Old Hance Trail。 The mouth of the mine enters the face of the cliff to the east； and overlooks the trail down which we descend into Hance Creek； where the old Hance Trail to the river used to be。 It is an old friend； for we have been down it more times than once； and can recall every feature。 We rest awhile here； in order to go down to the place where the side canyon through which the creek flows 〃narrows up。〃 We pass through； and on the other side stand before the shattered Tonto sandstones that Thomas Moran； years ago； named the Temple of Set； and even further on； where we used to leave the horses and climb down a boulder； and up the face of the cliff； and down the rope ladder over the archaean rockshere a crystalline mica schistand so on； all the way to the river。 So another day passes； and we stretch out our blankets； and sleep on the very ledge on which we bunked years and years ago； when we made our first descent and camp in this canyon。
Red Canyon Trail。 The next day we are ready to continue on to the west。 We climb out of Hance Canyon； and cross the ridge into Mineral Canyon； ascend again； cross another ridge； and find ourselves in that wonderland of the geologist； the Red Canyon Trail。
What do I mean by the Wonderland of the Geologist？ Ask of these tilted strata of red rock； that give the canyon its name； that the men wise in rocks call the non…conformable Algonkian strata！ Ask of the folds； or； flexures； in the strata； which the untrained eye can readily discern！
The Algonkian。 This is one of the spots that all geologistsfrom every part of the civilized worldaim for。 They know it is one of the rare things of the known world； and they come here to see it。 So make yourself as wise as you can while you are here and have the chance。 Read Dr。 Walcott's monograph from the fourteenth report of the United States Geological Survey； Volume No。 2； entitled 〃Pre…Cambrian Igneous Rocks of the Unkar Terrane。〃 Then read Major Powell's luminous earlier descriptions of these rocks in his 〃Explorations of the Colorado River of the West。〃 Learn from their own words what these geological masters say of these wonderful five hundred feet thick remnants of twelve thousand feet of strata that were once piled here above the archaean rocks。 Imagine over two miles of strata thrust up into the air； and then pay strict attention as the scientists reason out their conclusions as to the how； why； where； and whence of the eleven thousand five hundred feet of washed away strata。
Asbestos Mines。 If your guide knows how to compass it； cross the river here at the foot of the Red Canyon Trail； and visit the asbestos mines of the Hance Asbestos Mining Company of New York。 Try to comprehend what asbestos is； how it is formed。 See where it is located in these much burnt and much twisted strata。
If possible； go up and down the river； and see where the Inner Gorgethe granite or gneissreally begins。 It is not so very far away。
Then； when you are ready； watch the guide adjust the much…lightened pack； for the supply of 〃grub〃 is getting low； perhaps assist him swing the packs on the packsaddle； put on the canvas covering and throw the 〃diamond hitch；〃 and then saddle your own horsefor by now you will have begun to feel some confidence and pride in doing things that the 〃tenderfoot〃 generally leaves to the guideand soon you are climbing up the trail on your way to the rim。 As soon as you are on 〃top；〃 you 〃push on〃 the pack animals and 〃hit the trail hard〃 by way of Hance's Ranch； now owned by Martin Buggel； to Grand View； and over the familiar road back to El Tovar。
Eastern Points。 Or； before returning； one day or several more days can be spent in visiting the salient promontoriesMoran； Zuni； Papago； Pinal and Lipan Pointsand then descending the most eastern trail of the Grand Canyon； known as the Tanner…French Trail。
Imagine the gain after such a trip。 Count up the store of knowledge acquired； the health； vim； vigor added to one's store； the capacity for energetic life developed； the experiences accumulated； the hardships laughed at and overcome； and then tell me whether any similar outlay of cash elsewhere can produce equal benefits in results。
This is but one of many such trips which I will now briefly and succinctly name； each one of which is different from every other one。
To Havasu Canyon。 One； two； or three weeks （or more） can profitably be spent in going westward （twenty…five miles） over the Topocobya Road to the head of the Topocobya Trail into Havasu （Cataract） Canyon。 This is a drive of forty miles。 Camp over night there； and then descend in the cool of the morning down either arm of this stupendous cliff （see chapter on Havasu Canyon） to Topocobya Spring； and on down the wash into Havasu Canyon； fifteen miles or so to the Havasupai village。
Camp near； or in； one of the fields of the Indians； where good alfalfa can be purchased for the animals and fresh vegetables and fruit （in season） for one's own use。 If you are not too squeamish to see aboriginal man in his primitive dirt； study him in his home。 Try to learn to look at things from his standpoint。 If possible； witness one of his dancesa religious ceremonyand arrange to enter his primitive toholwoh or sweat…house； where he will give you a most effective and powerful Russo…Turkish bath。 Swim in Havasu Creek to your heart's content； several times a day。 Climb to the old fort； where the Havasupais used to retire to defend themselves when pressed too closely by their hereditary foes； the Apaches。 Listen to the stones； the legends； the myths about the stone figures your eye cannot fail to see soon after you reach the village； which command the widest part of the Canyon； where the Indians live； and which are called by them Hue…puk…eh…eh and Hue…gli…i…wa。 Get one of the storytellers to recite to you the deeds of Tochopa； their good god； and Hokomata； their bad god； and ask them for the wonderfully fascinating legend of the mother of their tribethe daughter of Tochopa； from whom the whole human race descended。 Ask one of the old men to tell you the stories of some of their conflicts with the Apaches； and why Tochopa placed the Hue…gli…i…wa in so prominent and salient a position。 If you desire something of a different nature； engage some of the younger men to get up a horse race。 The wise and judicious expenditure of a few dollars will generally produce the desired effect。
Then； when you are ready to travel again； get a Havasupai to guide youno one else canup to the fascinating spring called Pack…a…tha…true…ye…ba； or to some of their side canyons where cliff…dwellings； corn…storage houses and pictographs abound。
Bridal Veil Falls。 On your return； descend to Bridal Veil Falls； and see where a capitalist spent many thousands of dollars in unnecessary work because he had been deluded into the belief that platinum existed here。 Then forget men and their mad search for gold； and stand reverent before a secret shrine of beauty incomparablethis exquisite fall in its majestic setting。 A day or more can be well spent here； and yet not exhaust the delight of this one fall。 There are four ways of approach to it from the village above。 Go over them all； as each has its own peculiar charm。 Then strike off down the Canyon to Mooney Falls； and hear the story； as you cross and recross Havasu Creek； of the poor miner who was killed here and from whom the fall obtains its name。 And finally； follow the winding of the pellucid stream until it is ejected through a narrow passageway into the turbulent Colorado。
Cushing's Story of the Havasupais。 On returning from the Havasupai village； come out by the Walla
