the grand canyon of arizona-第11部分
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objects seen in the heart of the Canyon is needless。 Suffice it to say that the panorama takes in every tower； temple； butte and structure； seen from Point Sublime on the north side； or any of the points on the south side； from Havasupai Point on the east； to Yavapai Point on the west； and includes Wotan's Throne； Vishnu Temple； and the wall of the Little Colorado to the faraway east。
On the Lower Trail to the River。 The trail then winds under Yuma Point； and zigzags down the thinner strata of the red sandstones on to the red…wall limestones； where it affords more extended views on a lower plateau of lesser area； the rocky butte on the end of which is named Bunker Hill Monument。 From this plateau another rapid descent is made through masses of rock to the bed of Long （or Boucher） Creek； where； at the distance of about a mile from the river； is located the lower camp。 Here Boucher has planted a garden of all kinds of vegetables； and with seventy…five trees； which include oranges； figs； peaches； pears； apricots； apples； nectarines； and pomegranates； he boasts of his melons； canteloupes； beets； onions； tomatoes； chile； carrots； cucumbers； parsnips； etc。； and I can vouch for the sweet and refreshing qualities of his melons。 Tomatoes； ripe and green； covered his vines in January； and he has them throughout the year。 It needs no comment to explain how delightful fresh vegetables are； after one has made this trail trip； especially if it should be in the hot summer months。
Good and comfortable beds and other camp accommodations are provided here； so that a stop may be made over night。 In the morning； the river is visited； and the return trip accomplished in easy time for dinner。 The distance from rim to river has not been measured； but it is estimated to be from eight to ten miles。
Boucher also has a copper mine； rich in mineral。 He claims that it is a continuation of the copper ledge of Bass's mine； and is possibly the same deposit that continues east to the Canyon Copper Company's mine on the Berry Trail。
The return trip can be made over various routes； including the ascent of Bass or Bright Angel Trails； but a majority of visitors will wish to return by way of Hermit Trail； across Hermit Basin from Boucher Trail。 In that way they will get the experience of using two trails with their different outlooks and a journey across the plateau down in the Canyon； as well as a drive back to El Tovar on Hermit Rim Road。
CHAPTER VII。 How Fully To See And Know The Grand Canyon Region
Advantages of Camping Trips。 The suggestions in this chapter are mainly for the strenuous and strong； though this by no means excludes members of the gentle sex。 Many women and girlssome who have never before been on horsebackhave made these extended trips； even those that have required weeks of rough camping。 For detailed particulars of the scenery； those interested are referred to the various chapters devoted to the respective trails。 The transportation department at El Tovar is under the control of competent men； and is thoroughly well equipped to send visitors on prolonged camping trips with everything needed for a week； a month； or six months。 It is merely a question of time and meeting the necessary expense。 On the occasion of my last visit to El Tovar； a small party of both sexes was equipped and started out for a trip to last fully three weeks。 Reference to the chapter entitled 〃Across the Grand Canyon to Point Sublime；〃 mainly written as her diary by an elderly lady； will give the ideas of a woman who had next to no previous experience of the hardships； as well as the immediate enjoyments of such a trip。 But no one can estimate the continual source of delight and pleasure the memories of such a trip are to those who have resolutely faced and overcome the merely temporary discomforts entailed。 The experiences with the burros； the surprises of the scenery； the exquisite delight of the perfect rest and dreamless sleep one enjoys； after the first few nights of novelty are worn off； the satisfaction of seeing and knowing much of the most sublime piece of natural scenery on earth； are compensations and satisfactions enough。
Down Bright Angel Trail。 After one has gained the slight knowledge of the Canyon afforded by the easier trips described； let him plan to make the following as 〃a starter〃 in his more thorough investigation。 With a good guide； pack animals carrying a full equipment of sleeping； cooking and eating necessities； plenty of water in canteens； one or two extra canvasses in case of rain； a note…book； and pencils or fountain pen； a compass and barometer for altitude readings； and the United States Geological Survey maps of the region； one is ready to make a 〃good start。〃 Descend the Bright Angel Trail to the river； study the formations all the way down； get a clear idea of the relative positions of the strata； and learn to detect them by the individualistic appearances of wall； temple； butte； etc。； and examine the so…called cliff…dwellings hidden away in the Tonto sandstones before descending on the gneiss into Pipe Creek Canyon。 Arrived at the river； spend a day there investigating the peculiar foldings and tiltings of the Algonkian strata。 Sleep； as did Powell and his men for weeks； on the sands of the Colorado River； with the noise of the rapids ever in your ears。 Breathe the pure air； and watch the solemn march of the stars。
Have you ever noticed how delicious the most ordinary food is； when cooked and eaten in the open air； after a day of reasonable exertion？ Climbing； riding； and walking expand the lungs； and this means the absorption of immeasurably more oxygen。 Weak stomachs； fickle appetites； dyspeptic symptoms； insomnia； blue devils and a score of the ills that human flesh is heir to； disappear before the floods of sunshine and oxygen that bathe the body； inside and out； of the man or woman who gladly accepts the outdoor life； even though only for a short time； in this Canyon region。
These philosophizings are aroused by the smell of bacon frying over the camp…fire； or the crack of a fine； mealy Arizona potato； roasting in the ashes； or a whiff from the coffee…pot； just about to topple over on the burning sticks。 The fire is made of driftwood washed down possibly from some storm…swept region where a Mormon dwells with his numerous family； or； mayhap； from a forest where the elk of Wyoming still roam。
How real life in this Canyon now begins to be。 It is opening up its secrets to us as we thus come into it。 We are learning to love it； therefore it shows its heart to us。 It no longer is a 〃thing〃 to be looked at； it is a real something； an individuality to love； to listen to； to question； to honor。
On the Tonto Trail。 We are now ready to go over the old Tonto Trail the trail made centuries ago by mountain sheep； small bands of which are still to be found in the remoter corners of the Canyonthen followed by the Indians； whose moccasined feet made less impression upon it than did the hoofs of the sheep。 And in the two or three decades just passed； a few white men trod it。 Perhaps Powell； or some of his men； or Stanton； walked where we now walk； or ride； and surely some of those early mining prospectors of the CanyonAshurst； McClure； Marshall； Hance； Boucher； Berry； Brashear；once went this way。
In and out of the recesses of the much carved walls； up and down the wavy ridges of the plateaus； sometimes descending into deep side gorges； we ride； our guide leading the way to the Grand View Trail； and our pack…mules and burros following； while we occupy the rear of the procession。 We stop for noon lunch in one of the side canyons where is a spring of clear water。 We take off the packs from the animals； and let them nibble away at the rich grama and gallinas grasses that flourish here after the summer rains。
Comfortable and contented after our meal； we lie on our backs under the shelter of a juniper or a friendly cottonwood； or in the shade of an immense block fallen from some cracked wall above。 Already we are becoming familiar with the strata； and can call each one by name。 The red wall limestone； we find； is known to the guides and miners as the 〃blue lime；〃 owing to the fact that its capping stratum； where exposed； has a light blue color。
Cottonwood Creek and Horseshoe Mesa。 In due time we reach Cottonwood Creek； which flows down to the left （west） of Grand View Point。 Here the plateau opens out； but we leave it in order to follow the creek； on the Berry Trail down to the river。 Perhaps we spend the night here； and in the morning ascend to the mesa on to the Tonto； then up the well…engineered trail to Grand View Cave （see description in chapter on Grand View Trail）。 Sending the pack animals on from here； we wait until some one descends from the near…by Horseshoe Mesa； where the camp of the Canyon Copper Company is located； with candles ready to conduct us through the wonders of this natural excavation in the red…wall limestone。 This occupies the whole of our afternoon； so that when we reach the mesa； we are ready to partake of the substantial and cheery fare of the Camp； and then unroll our blankets； lie down； listen to the chat of the miners and guide； hear them recount some of their thrilling and exciting experien
