the land of footprints-第33部分
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ucation and welfare。 One of my most vivid camp recollections is that of M'ganga； very benign and didactic； seated on a chop box and holding forth to a semicircle of totos squatted on the ground before him。 On reaching camp totos had several clearly defined duties： they must pick out good places for their masters' individual camps； they must procure cooking stones； they must collect kindling wood and start fires； they must fill the sufurias with water and set them over to boil。 In the meantime； their masters were attending to the pitching of the bwana's camp。 The rest of the time the toto played about quite happily； and did light odd jobs； or watched most attentively while his master showed him small details of a safari…boy's duty； or taught him simple handicraft。 Our boys seemed to take great pains with their totos and to try hard to teach them。
Also at Meru we had acquired two cocks and four hens of the ridiculously small native breed。 These rode atop the loads： their feet were tied to the cords and there they swayed and teetered and balanced all day long； apparently quite happy and interested。 At each new camp site they were released and went scratching and clucking around among the tents。 They lent our temporary quarters quite a settled air of domesticity。 We named the cocks Gaston and Alphonse and somehow it was rather fine； in the blackness before dawn； to hear these little birds crowing stout…heartedly against the great African wilderness。 Neither Gaston； Alphonse nor any of their harem were killed and eaten by their owners； but seemed rather to fulfil the function of household pets。
Along the jungle track we met swarms of people coming in to the post。 One large native safari composed exclusively of women were transporting loads of trade goods for the Indian trader。 They carried their burdens on their backs by means of a strap passing over the top of the head； our own 〃tump line〃 method。 The labour seemed in no way to have dashed their spirits； for they grinned at us； and joked merrily with our boys。 Along the way； every once in a while； we came upon people squatted down behind small stocks of sugarcane； yams； bananas； and the like。 With these our boys did a brisk trade。 Little paths led mysteriously into the jungle。 Down them came more savages to greet us。 Everybody was most friendly and cheerful； thanks to Horne's personal influence。 Two years before this same lot had been hostile。 From every hidden village came the headmen or chiefs。 They all wanted to shake hands…the ordinary citizen never dreamed of aspiring to that honour…and they all spat carefully into their palms before they did so。 This all had to be done in passing； for ordinary village headmen it was beneath Our Dignity to draw rein。 Once only we broke over this rule。 That was in the case of an old fellow with white hair who managed to get so tangled up in the shrubbery that he could not get to us。 He was so frantic with disappointment that we made an exception and waited。
About three miles out； we lost one of our newly acquired totos。 Reason： an exasperated parent who had followed from Meru for the purpose of reclaiming his runaway offspring。 The latter was dragged off howling。 Evidently he； like some of his civilized cousins； had 〃run away to join the circus。〃 As nearly as we could get at it； the rest of the totos； as well as the nine additional we picked up before we quitted the jungle； had all come with their parents' consent。 In fact； we soon discovered that we could buy any amount of good sound totos； not house broke however； for an average of half a rupee （16…1/2 cents） apiece。
The road was very much up and down hill over the numerous ridges that star…fish out from Mt。 Kenia。 We would climb down steep trails from 200 to 800 feet （measured by aneroid）； cross an excellent mountain stream of crystalline dashing water； and climb out again。 The trails of course had no notion of easy grades。 It was very hard work； especially for men with loads； and it would have been impossible on account of the heat were it not for the numerous streams。 On the slopes and in the bottoms were patches of magnificent forest； on the crests was the jungle； and occasionally an outlook over extended views。 The birds and the strange tropical big…leaved trees were a constant delight…exotic and strange。 Billy was in a heaven of joy； for her specialty in Africa was plants； seeds and bulbs； for her California garden。 She had syces； gunbearers and tent boys all climbing； shaking branches； and generally pawing about。
This idiosyncracy of Billy's puzzled our boys hugely。 At first they tried telling her that everything was poisonous； but when that did not work； they resigned themselves to their fate。 In fact； some of the most enterprising like Memba Sasa； Kitaru； and； later； Kongoni used of their own accord to hunt up and bring in seeds and blossoms。 They did not in the least understand what it was for； and it used to puzzle them hugely until out of sheer pity for their uneasiness； I implied that the Memsahib collected 〃medicine。〃 That was rational； so the wrinkled brow of care was smoothed。 From this botanical trait； Billy got her native name of 〃Beebee Kooletta〃…〃The Lady Who Says： Go Get That。〃 For in Africa every white man has a name by which he is known among the native people。 If you would get news of your friends； you must know their local cognomens…their own white man names will not do at all。 For example； I was called either Bwana Machumwani or Bwana N'goma。 The former means merely Master Four…eyes； referring to my glasses。 The precise meaning of the latter is a matter much disputed between myself and Billy。 An N'goma is a native dance； consisting of drum poundings； chantings； and hoppings around。 Therefore I translate myself （most appropriately） as the Master who Makes Merry。 On the other hand； Billy； with true feminine indirectness； insists that it means 〃The Master who Shouts and Howls。〃 I leave it to any fairminded reader。
About the middle of the morning we met a Government runner； a proud youth； young； lithe； with many ornaments and bangles； his red skin glistening； the long blade of his spear； bound around with a red strip to signify his office； slanting across his shoulder； his buffalo hide shield slung from it over his back； the letter he was bearing stuck in a cleft stick and carried proudly before him as a priest carries a cross to the heathen…in the pictures。 He was swinging along at a brisk pace； but on seeing us drew up and gave us a smart military salute。
At one point where the path went level and straight for some distance； we were riding in an absolute solitude。 Suddenly from the jungle on either side and about fifty yards ahead of us leaped a dozen women。 They were dressed in grass skirts； and carried long narrow wooden shields painted white and brown。 These they clashed together； shrieked shrilly； and charged down on us at full speed。 When within a few yards of our horses noses they came to a sudden halt； once more clashed their shields； shrieked； turned and scuttled away as fast as their legs could carry them。 At a hundred yards they repeated the performance； and charged back at us again。 Thus advancing and retreating； shrieking high； hitting the wooden shields with resounding crash； they preceded our slow advance for a half mile or so。 Then at some signal unperceived by us they vanished abruptly into the jungle。 Once more we rode forward in silence and in solitude。 Why they did it I could not say。
Of this tissue were our days made。 At noon our boys plucked us each two or three banana leaves which they spread down for us to lie on。 Then we dozed through the hot hours in great comfort； occasionally waking to blue sky through green trees； or to peer idly into the tangled jungle。 At two o'clock or a little later we would arouse ourselves reluctantly and move on。 The safari we had dimly heard passing us an hour before。 In this country of the direct track we did not attempt to accompany our men。
The end of the day's march found us in a little clearing where we could pitch camp。 Generally this was atop a ridge； so that the boys had some distance to carry water； but that disadvantage was outweighed by the cleared space。 Sometimes we found ourselves hemmed in by a wall of jungle。 Again we enjoyed a broad outlook。 One such in especial took in the magnificent； splintered； snow…capped peak of Kenia on the right； a tremendous gorge and rolling forested mountains straight ahead； and a great drop to a plain with other and distant mountains to the left。 It was as fine a panoramic view as one could imagine。
Our tents pitched； and ourselves washed and refreshed； we gave audience to the resident chief； who had probably been waiting。 With this potentate we conversed affably； after the usual expectoratorial ceremonies。 Billy； being a mere woman； did not always come in for this； but nevertheless she maintained what she called her 〃quarantine gloves；〃 and kept them very handy。 We had standing orders with our boys for basins of hot water to be waiting always behind our tents。 After the usual polite exchanges we informed the chief of our needs…firewood； perhaps； milk； a sheep or the like。 These he furnished。 When we left we made him a present of a few beads； a knife； a
