the land of footprints-第32部分
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olling； beautiful downs of a first…class country club； and the illusion is enhanced by the Commissioner's house among some trees atop a hill。 Well…kept roadways railed with rustic fences lead from the house to the native quarters lying in the hollow and to the Government offices atop another hill。 Then also there are the quarters of the Nubian troops； round low houses with conical grass roofs。
These； and the presence everywhere of savages； rather take away from the first country…club effect。 A corral seemed full of a seething mob of natives； we found later that this was the market； a place of exchange。 Groups wandered idly here and there across the greensward； and other groups sat in circles under the shade of trees； each man's spear stuck in the ground behind him。 At stated points were the Nubians； fine； tall； black； soldierly men； with red fez； khaki shirt； and short breeches； bare knees and feet； spiral puttees； and a broad red sash of webbing。 One of these soldiers assigned us a place to camp。 We directed our safari there； and then immediately rode over to pay our respects to the Commissioner。
The latter； Horne by name； greeted us with the utmost cordiality； and offered us cool drinks。 Then we accompanied him to a grand shauri or council of chiefs。
Horne was a little chap； dressed in flannels and a big slouch hat； carrying only a light rawhide whip； with very little of the dignity and 〃side〃 usually considered necessary in dealing with wild natives。 The post at Meru had been established only two years； among a people that had always been very difficult； and had only recently ceased open hostilities。 Nevertheless in that length of time Horne's personal influence had won them over to positive friendliness。 He had； moreover； done the entire construction work of the post itself； and this we now saw to be even more elaborate than we had at first realized。 Irrigating ditches ran in all directions brimming with clear mountain water； the roads and paths were rounded； graded and gravelled； the houses were substantial； well built and well kept； fences； except of course the rustic； were whitewashed； the native quarters and 〃barracks〃 were well ranged and in perfect order。 The place looked ten years old instead of only two。
We followed Horne to an enclosure； outside the gate of which were stacked a great number of spears。 Inside we found the owners of those spears squatted before the open side of a small； three…walled building containing a table and a chair。 Horne placed himself in the chair； lounged back； and hit the table smartly with his rawhide whip。 From the centre of the throng an old man got up and made quite a long speech。 When he had finished another did likewise。 All was carried out with the greatest decorum。 After four or five had thus spoken； Horne； without altering his lounging attitude； spoke twenty or thirty words； rapped again on the table with his rawhide whip； and immediately came over to us。
〃Now；〃 said he cheerfully； 〃we'll have a game of golf。〃
That was amusing； but not astonishing。 Most of us have at one time or another laid out a scratch hole or so somewhere in the vacant lot。 We returned to the house； Horne produced a sufficiency of clubs； and we sallied forth。 Then came the surprise of our life！ We played eighteen holes…eighteen； mind you…over an excellently laid…out and kept…up course！ The fair greens were cropped short and smooth by a well…managed small herd of sheep； the putting greens were rolled； and in perfect order； bunkers had been located at the correct distances； there were water hazards in the proper spots。 In short； it was a genuine； scientific； well…kept golf course。 Over it played Horne； solitary except on the rare occasions when he and his assistant happened to be at the post at the same time。 The nearest white man was six days' journey； the nearest small civilization 196 miles。* The whole affair was most astounding。
*Which was； in turn； over three hundred miles from the next。
Our caddies were grinning youngsters a good deal like the Gold Dust Twins。 They wore nothing but our golf bags。 Afield were other supernumerary caddies： one in case we sliced； one in case we pulled； and one in case we drove straight ahead。 Horne explained that unlimited caddies were easier to get than unlimited golf balls。 I can well believe it。
F。 joined forces with Horne against B。 and me for a grand international match。 I regret to state that America was defeated by two holes。
We returned to find our camp crowded with savages。 In a short time we had established trade relations and were doing a brisk business。 Two years before we should have had to barter exclusively； but now； thanks to Horne's attempt to collect an annual hut tax； money was some good。 We had； however； very good luck with bright blankets and cotton cloth。 Our beads did not happen here to be in fashion。 Probably three months earlier or later we might have done better with them。 The feminine mind here differs in no basic essential from that of civilization。 Fashions change as rapidly； as often and as completely in the jungle as in Paris。 The trader who brings blue beads when blue beads have 〃gone out〃 might just as well have stayed at home。 We bought a number of the pretty 〃marquise〃 rings for four cents apiece （our money）； some war clubs or rungas for the same； several spears； armlets； stools and the like。 Billy thought one of the short； soft skin cloaks embroidered with steel beads might be nice to hang on the wall。 We offered a youth two rupees for one。 This must have been a high price； for every man in hearing of the words snatched off his cloak and rushed forward holding it out。 As that reduced his costume to a few knick…knacks； Billy retired from the busy mart until we could arrange matters。
We dined with Horne。 His official residence was most interesting。 The main room was very high to beams and a grass…thatched roof； with a well…brushed earth floor covered with mats。 It contained comfortable furniture； a small library； a good phonograph； tables； lamps and the like。 When the mountain chill descended； Horne lit a fire in a coal…oil can with a perforated bottom。 What little smoke was produced by the clean burning wood lost itself far aloft。 Leopard skins and other trophies hung on the wall。 We dined in another room at a well…appointed table。 After dinner we sat up until the unheard of hour of ten o'clock discussing at length many matters that interested us。 Horne told us of his personal bodyguard consisting of one son from each chief of his wide district。 These youths were encouraged to make as good an appearance as possible； and as a consequence turned out in the extreme of savage gorgeousness。 Horne spoke of them carelessly as a 〃matter of policy in keeping the different tribes well disposed；〃 but I thought he was at heart a little proud of them。 Certainly； later and from other sources； we heard great tales of their endurance； devotion and efficiency。 Also we heard that Horne had cut in half his six months' leave （earned by three years' continuous service in the jungle） to hurry back from England because he could not bear the thought of being absent from the first collection of the hut tax！ He is a good man。
We said good…night to him and stepped from the lighted house into the vast tropical night。 The little rays of our lantern showed us the inequalities of the ground； and where to step across the bubbling； little irrigation streams。 But thousands of stars insisted on a simplification。 The broad； rolling meadows of the clearing lay half guessed in the dim light； and about its edge was the velvet band of the forest； dark and mysterious； stretching away for leagues into the jungle。 From it near at hand； far away； came the rhythmic beating of solemn great drums； and the rising and falling chants of the savage peoples。
（C） THE CHIEFS
We left Meru well observed by a very large audience； much to the delight of our safari boys； who love to show off。 We had acquired fourteen more small boys； or totos； ranging in age from eight to twelve years。 These had been fitted out by their masters to alleviate their original shenzi appearance of savagery。 Some had ragged blankets； which they had already learned to twist turban wise around their heads； others had ragged old jerseys reaching to their knees； or the wrecks of full…grown undershirts； one or two even sported baggy breeches a dozen sizes too large。 Each carried his little load； proudly； atop his head like a real porter； sufurias or cooking pots； the small bags of potio； and the like。 Inside a mile they had gravitated together and with the small boy's relish for imitation and for playing a game； had completed a miniature safari organization of their own。 Thenceforth they marched in a compact little company； under orders of their 〃headman。〃 They marched very well； too； straight and proud and tireless。 Of course we inspected their loads to see that they were not required to carry too much for their strength； but； I am bound to say； we never discovered an attempt at overloading。 In fact； the toto brigade was treated very well indeed。 M'ganga especially took great interest in their education and welfare。 One of my most vivid camp recollections is that of M'ganga； very benign and did
