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of the country; might; at least before the roads were made; have
wandered among the rocks; till he had perished with hardship;
before he could have found either food or shelter。  Yet what are
these hillocks to the ridges of Taurus; or these spots of wildness
to the desarts of America?

It was not long before we were invited to mount; and continued our
journey along the side of a lough; kept full by many streams; which
with more or less rapidity and noise; crossed the road from the
hills on the other hand。  These currents; in their diminished
state; after several dry months; afford; to one who has always
lived in level countries; an unusual and delightful spectacle; but
in the rainy season; such as every winter may be expected to bring;
must precipitate an impetuous and tremendous flood。  I suppose the
way by which we went; is at that time impassable。



GLENSHEALS



The lough at last ended in a river broad and shallow like the rest;
but that it may be passed when it is deeper; there is a bridge over
it。  Beyond it is a valley called Glensheals; inhabited by the clan
of Macrae。  Here we found a village called Auknasheals; consisting
of many huts; perhaps twenty; built all of dry…stone; that is;
stones piled up without mortar。

We had; by the direction of the officers at Fort Augustus; taken
bread for ourselves; and tobacco for those Highlanders who might
show us any kindness。  We were now at a place where we could obtain
milk; but we must have wanted bread if we had not brought it。  The
people of this valley did not appear to know any English; and our
guides now became doubly necessary as interpreters。  A woman; whose
hut was distinguished by greater spaciousness and better
architecture; brought out some pails of milk。  The villagers
gathered about us in considerable numbers; I believe without any
evil intention; but with a very savage wildness of aspect and
manner。  When our meal was over; Mr。 Boswell sliced the bread; and
divided it amongst them; as he supposed them never to have tasted a
wheaten loaf before。  He then gave them little pieces of twisted
tobacco; and among the children we distributed a small handful of
halfpence; which they received with great eagerness。  Yet I have
been since told; that the people of that valley are not indigent;
and when we mentioned them afterwards as needy and pitiable; a
Highland lady let us know; that we might spare our commiseration;
for the dame whose milk we drank had probably more than a dozen
milk…cows。  She seemed unwilling to take any price; but being
pressed to make a demand; at last named a shilling。  Honesty is not
greater where elegance is less。  One of the bystanders; as we were
told afterwards; advised her to ask for more; but she said a
shilling was enough。  We gave her half a crown; and I hope got some
credit for our behaviour; for the company said; if our interpreters
did not flatter us; that they had not seen such a day since the old
laird of Macleod passed through their country。

The Macraes; as we heard afterwards in the Hebrides; were
originally an indigent and subordinate clan; and having no farms
nor stock; were in great numbers servants to the Maclellans; who;
in the war of Charles the First; took arms at the call of the
heroic Montrose; and were; in one of his battles; almost all
destroyed。  The women that were left at home; being thus deprived
of their husbands; like the Scythian ladies of old; married their
servants; and the Macraes became a considerable race。



THE HIGHLANDS



As we continued our journey; we were at leisure to extend our
speculations; and to investigate the reason of those peculiarities
by which such rugged regions as these before us are generally
distinguished。

Mountainous countries commonly contain the original; at least the
oldest race of inhabitants; for they are not easily conquered;
because they must be entered by narrow ways; exposed to every power
of mischief from those that occupy the heights; and every new ridge
is a new fortress; where the defendants have again the same
advantages。  If the assailants either force the strait; or storm
the summit; they gain only so much ground; their enemies are fled
to take possession of the next rock; and the pursuers stand at
gaze; knowing neither where the ways of escape wind among the
steeps; nor where the bog has firmness to sustain them:  besides
that; mountaineers have an agility in climbing and descending
distinct from strength or courage; and attainable only by use。

If the war be not soon concluded; the invaders are dislodged by
hunger; for in those anxious and toilsome marches; provisions
cannot easily be carried; and are never to be found。  The wealth of
mountains is cattle; which; while the men stand in the passes; the
women drive away。  Such lands at last cannot repay the expence of
conquest; and therefore perhaps have not been so often invaded by
the mere ambition of dominion; as by resentment of robberies and
insults; or the desire of enjoying in security the more fruitful
provinces。

As mountains are long before they are conquered; they are likewise
long before they are civilized。  Men are softened by intercourse
mutually profitable; and instructed by comparing their own notions
with those of others。  Thus Caesar found the maritime parts of
Britain made less barbarous by their commerce with the Gauls。  Into
a barren and rough tract no stranger is brought either by the hope
of gain or of pleasure。  The inhabitants having neither commodities
for sale; nor money for purchase; seldom visit more polished
places; or if they do visit them; seldom return。

It sometimes happens that by conquest; intermixture; or gradual
refinement; the cultivated parts of a country change their
language。  The mountaineers then become a distinct nation; cut off
by dissimilitude of speech from conversation with their neighbours。
Thus in Biscay; the original Cantabrian; and in Dalecarlia; the old
Swedish still subsists。  Thus Wales and the Highlands speak the
tongue of the first inhabitants of Britain; while the other parts
have received first the Saxon; and in some degree afterwards the
French; and then formed a third language between them。

That the primitive manners are continued where the primitive
language is spoken; no nation will desire me to suppose; for the
manners of mountaineers are commonly savage; but they are rather
produced by their situation than derived from their ancestors。

Such seems to be the disposition of man; that whatever makes a
distinction produces rivalry。  England; before other causes of
enmity were found; was disturbed for some centuries by the contests
of the northern and southern counties; so that at Oxford; the peace
of study could for a long time be preserved only by chusing
annually one of the Proctors from each side of the Trent。  A tract
intersected by many ridges of mountains; naturally divides its
inhabitants into petty nations; which are made by a thousand causes
enemies to each other。  Each will exalt its own chiefs; each will
boast the valour of its men; or the beauty of its women; and every
claim of superiority irritates competition; injuries will sometimes
be done; and be more injuriously defended; retaliation will
sometimes be attempted; and the debt exacted with too much
interest。

In the Highlands it was a law; that if a robber was sheltered from
justice; any man of the same clan might be taken in his place。
This was a kind of irregular justice; which; though necessary in
savage times; could hardly fail to end in a feud; and a feud once
kindled among an idle people with no variety of pursuits to divert
their thoughts; burnt on for ages either sullenly glowing in secret
mischief; or openly blazing into public violence。  Of the effects
of this violent judicature; there are not wanting memorials。  The
cave is now to be seen to which one of the Campbells; who had
injured the Macdonalds; retired with a body of his own clan。  The
Macdonalds required the offender; and being refused; made a fire at
the mouth of the cave; by which he and his adherents were
suffocated together。

Mountaineers are warlike; because by their feuds and competitions
they consider themselves as surrounded with enemies; and are always
prepared to repel incursions; or to make them。  Like the Greeks in
their unpolished state; described by Thucydides; the Highlanders;
till lately; went always armed; and carried their weapons to
visits; and to church。

Mountaineers are thievish; because they are poor; and having
neither manufactures nor commerce; can grow richer only by robbery。
They regularly plunder their neighbours; for their neighbours are
commonly their enemies; and having lost that reverence for
property; by which the order of civil life is preserved; soon
consider all as enemies; whom they do not reckon as friends; and
think themselves licensed to invade whatever they are not obliged
to protect。

By a strict administration of the laws; since the laws have been
introduced into the Highlands; this disposition to thievery is very
much represt。  Thirty years ago no herd had ever been conducted
through the mountains; without paying tribute in

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