first across the continent-第20部分
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vast flocks of geese； while numerous herds of buffalo are feeding on the plains which surround it。
〃Captain Lewis then descended the hill； and directed his course towards the river falling in from the west。 He soon met a herd of at least a thousand buffalo； and； being desirous of providing for supper； shot one of them。 The animal immediately began to bleed； and Captain Lewis； who had forgotten to reload his rifle； was intently watching to see him fall； when he beheld a large brown bear which was stealing on him unperceived； and was already within twenty steps。 In the first moment of surprise he lifted his rifle； but； remembering instantly that it was not charged； and that he had no time to reload； he felt that there was no safety but in flight。 It was in the open； level plain； not a bush nor a tree within three hundred yards； the bank of the river sloping； and not more than three feet high； so that there was no possible mode of concealment。 Captain Lewis； therefore； thought of retreating with a quick walk； as fast as the bear advanced； towards the nearest tree； but； as soon as he turned； the bear rushed open…mouthed； and at full speed； upon him。 Captain Lewis ran about eighty yards； but finding that the animal gained on him fast； it flashed on his mind that； by getting into the water to such a depth that the bear would be obliged to attack him swimming； there was still some chance of his life； he therefore turned short； plunged into the river about waist…deep； and facing about presented the point of his espontoon。 The bear arrived at the water's edge within twenty feet of him； but as soon as he put himself in this posture of defence； the bear seemed frightened； and wheeling about； retreated with as much precipitation as he had pursued。 Very glad to be released from this danger； Captain Lewis returned to the shore； and observed him run with great speed； sometimes looking back as if he expected to be pursued； till he reached the woods。 He could not conceive the cause of the sudden alarm of the bear； but congratulated himself on his escape when he saw his own track torn to pieces by the furious animal； and learned from the whole adventure never to suffer his rifle to be a moment unloaded。〃
Captain Lewis now resumed his progress towards the western； or Sun； River； then more commonly known among the Indians as Medicine River。 In going through the lowlands of this stream； he met an animal which he thought was a wolf； but which was more likely a wolverine； or carcajou。 The journal says：
〃It proved to be some brownish yellow animal； standing near its burrow； which； when he came nigh； crouched； and seemed as if about to spring on him。 Captain Lewis fired； and the beast disappeared in its burrow。 From the track； and the general appearance of the animal； he supposed it to be of the tiger kind。 He then went on； but； as if the beasts of the forest had conspired against him； three buffalo bulls； which were feeding with a large herd at the distance of half a mile； left their companions； and ran at full speed towards him。 He turned round； and； unwilling to give up the field； advanced to meet them： when they were within a hundred yards they stopped； looked at him for some time； and then retreated as they came。 He now pursued his route in the dark； reflecting on the strange adventures and sights of the day； which crowded on his mind so rapidly； that he should have been inclined to believe it all enchantment if the thorns of the prickly pear； piercing his feet； had not dispelled at every moment the illusion。 He at last reached the party； who had been very anxious for his safety； and who had already decided on the route which each should take in the morning to look for him。 Being much fatigued； he supped； and slept well during the night。〃
On awaking the next morning； Captain Lewis found a large rattlesnake coiled on the trunk of a tree under which he had been sleeping。 He killed it； and found it like those he had seen before； differing from those of the Atlantic States； not in its colors； but in the form and arrangement of them。 Information was received that Captain Clark had arrived five miles below； at a rapid which he did not think it prudent to ascend； and that he was waiting there for the party above to rejoin him。
After the departure of Captain Lewis； Captain Clark had remained a day at Maria's River； to complete the deposit of such articles as they could dispense with； and started on the twelfth of June。
Four days later； Captain Clark left the river； having sent his messenger to Captain Lewis； and began to search for a proper portage to convey the pirogue and canoes across to the Columbia River； leaving most of the men to hunt； make wheels and draw the canoes up a creek which they named Portage Creek； as it was to be the base of their future operations。 The stream is now known as Belt Mountain Creek。 But the explorers soon found that although the pirogue was to be left behind； the way was too difficult for a portage even for canoes。 The journal says：
〃We found great difficulty and some danger in even ascending the creek thus far； in consequence of the rapids and rocks of the channel of the creek； which just above where we brought the canoes has a fall of five feet； with high steep bluffs beyond it。 We were very fortunate in finding； just below Portage Creek； a cottonwood tree about twenty…two inches in diameter； large enough to make the carriage…wheels。 It was； perhaps； the only one of the same size within twenty miles； and the cottonwood which we are obliged to employ in the other parts of the work is extremely soft and brittle。 The mast of the white pirogue； which we mean to leave behind； supplied us with two axle…trees。
〃There are vast quantities of buffalo feeding on the plains or watering in the river； which is also strewed with the floating carcasses and limbs of these animals。 They go in large herds to water about the falls； and as all the passages to the river near that place are narrow and steep； the foremost are pressed into the river by the impatience of those behind。 In this way we have seen ten or a dozen disappear over the falls in a few minutes。 They afford excellent food for the wolves； bears； and birds of prey； which circumstance may account for the reluctance of the bears to yield their dominion over the neighborhood。
〃The pirogue was drawn up a little below our camp； and secured in a thick copse of willow…bushes。 We now began to form a cache or place of deposit； and to dry our goods and other articles which required inspection。 The wagons are completed。 Our hunters brought us ten deer； and we shot two out of a herd of buffalo that came to water at Sulphur Spring。 There is a species of gooseberry； growing abundantly among the rocks on the sides of the cliffs。 It is now ripe； of a pale red color； about the size of the common gooseberry； and like it is an ovate pericarp of soft pulp enveloping a number of small whitish seeds； and consisting of a yellowish； slimy； mucilaginous substance； with a sweet taste； the surface of the berry is covered glutinous； adhesive matter； and its fruit； though ripe； retains its withered corolla。 The shrub itself seldom rises more than two feet high； is much branched； and has no thorns。 The leaves resemble those of the common gooseberry； except in being smaller； and the berry is supported by separate peduncles or foot…stalks half an inch long。 There are also immense quantities of grasshoppers； of a brown color； on the plains； they； no doubt； contribute to the lowness of the grass； which is not generally more than three inches high； though it is soft； narrow…leaved； and affords a fine pasture for the buffalo。〃
Chapter XI
A the Heart of the Continent
Captain Clark continued his observations up the long series of rapids and falls until he came to a group of three small islands to which he gave the name of White Bear Islands； from his having seen numerous white； or grizzly； bears on them。 On the nineteenth of June； Captain Clark； after a careful survey of the country on both sides of the stream； decided that the best place for a portage was on the south； or lower； side of the river； the length of the portage being estimated to be about eighteen miles； over which the canoes and supplies must be carried。 Next day he proceeded to mark out the exact route of the portage； or carry； by driving stakes along its lines and angles。 From the survey and drawing which he made； the party now had a clear and accurate view of the falls； cascades； and rapids of the Missouri； and； it may be added； this draught； which is reproduced on another page of this book； is still so correct in all its measurements that when a Montana manufacturing company undertook to build a dam at Black Eagle Falls； nearly one hundred years afterwards； they discovered that their surveys and those of Captain Clark were precisely alike。 The total fall of the river； from the White Bear Islands； as Lewis and Clark called them； to the foot of the Great Falls； is four hundred twelve and five…tenths feet； the sheer drop of the Great Fall is seventy…five and five…tenths feet。 The wild； trackless prairie of Lewis and Clark's time is now the site of the thriving town of Great Falls； which has a population of
