the grand canyon of arizona-第1部分

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The　Grand　Canyon　of　Arizona：　How　to　See　It

by　George　Wharton　James




Revised　Edition

Boston：　Little；　Brown；　and　Company

Kansas　City：　Fred　Harvey

1912


PREFACE　TO　REVISED　EDITION

Because　of　the　completion　of　a　new　driveway　along　the　Rim　of　the　Grand　Canyon；　and　of　a　new　trail　to　the　Colorado　River；　a　second　edition　of　this　book　is　deemed　necessary。

These　improvements；　which　have　recently　been　made　by　the　Santa　Fe　Railway；　are　known　as　Hermit　Rim　Road　and　Hermit　Trail。　The　first；　said　to　be　the　most　unique　road　in　the　world；　is　nine　miles　long　on　the　brink　of　the　Canyon；　and　the　other；　a　wide　and　safe　pathway　down　the　south　wall。

The　contents　of　the　volume　has　been　revised；　and　descriptions　of　Hermit　Rim　Road　and　Hermit　Trail　have　been　added。　There　are　also　new　portions　describing　the　drives　and　trips　that　may　be　taken　through　the　forest　on　the　Rim　and　in　the　Canyon　itself；　each　carefully　planned　so　that　the　traveler　may　devote　to　sightseeing　whatever　amount　of　time　he　desires。

With　these　additions　and　alterations；　the　original　plan　to　provide　a　convenient　handbook　for　all　travelers　to　the　Grand　Canyon　is　more　complete。




FOREWORD

Upwards　of　ten　years　ago　I　sat　on　the　south　rim　of　the　Grand　Canyon　and　wrote　〃In　and　Around　the　Grand　Canyon。〃　In　that　book　I　included　much　that　more　than　a　decade　of　wandering　up　and　down　the　trails　of　this　great　abyss　had　taught　me。　At　that　time　the　only　accommodations　for　sightseers　were　stage　lines　or　private　conveyance　from　Flagstaff　and　Ash　Fork；　and；　on　arrival　at　the　Canyon；　the　crude　hotel…camps　at　Hance's；　Grand　View；　Bright　Angel；　and　Bass's。　The　railway　north　from　Williams　was　being　built。　Everything　was　crude　and　primitive。

Now　the　railway　is　completed　and　has　become　an　integral　part　of　the　great　Santa　Fe　System；　with　at　least　two　trains　a　day　each　way　carrying　Pullman　sleepers；　chair　cars　and　coaches。　At　Bright　Angel；　where　the　railway　deposits　its　passengers　at　the　rim　of　the　Canyon；　stands　El　Tovar　Hotel；　erected　by　the　railway　company　at　a　cost　of　over　a　quarter　of　a　million　dollars；　which　is　equipped　and　conducted　by　Fred　Harvey。　Yet　El　Tovar　is　more　like　a　country　club　than　a　hotel；　in　many　respects；　and；　to　that　extent；　is　better。

Hence　while　nothing　in　the　canyon　itself　has　changed；　and　while　my　book；　〃In　and　Around　the　Grand　Canyon；〃　is　still　as　helpful　to　the　traveler　and　general　reader　as　ever；　there　has　been　a　growing　demand　for　a　new　book　which　should　give　the　information　needed　by　the　traveler　who　comes　under　the　new　conditions；　telling　him　how　he　may　best　avail　himself　of　them。　This　book　is　written　to　meet　this　demand。　It　therefore　partakes　more　of　the　character　of　a　guide　book　than　the　former　volume；　so　it　has　been　decided　to　make　it　lighter　in　weight　and　handier　in　form；　so　that　it　can　be　slipped　into　the　pocket　or　handbag；　and　thus　used　on　the　spot　by　those　who　wish　a　ready　reference　handbook。

Used　in　connection　with　the　earlier　volume　or　alone　for　it　is　complete　in　itself　in　all　its　detailsit　cannot　fail　to　give　a　clearer　and　fuller　comprehension　of　this　〃Waterway　of　the　Gods；〃the　most　incomparable　piece　of　rugged　scenery　in　the　known　world。

George　Wharton　James　El　Tovar；　Grand　Canyon；　September；　1909。



CONTENTS

FOREWORD

I。　THE　GRAND　CANYON　OF　ARIZONA

II。　ON　THE　GRAND　CANYON　RAILWAY　TO　EL　TOVAR

III。　EL　TOVAR　AND　ITS　EQUIPMENTS

IV。　THE　GRAND　CANYON　AT　EL　TOVAR

V。　THREE　WAYS　OF　SPENDING　ONE　DAY　AT　THE　CANYON

VI。　HOW　TO　SPEND　TWO　TO　FIVE　DAYS　AT　EL　TOVAR

VII。　HOW　FULLY　TO　SEE　AND　KNOW　THE　GRAND　CANYON　REGION

VIII。　FROM　EL　TOVAR　DOWN　THE　BRIGHT　ANGEL　TRAIL

IX。　TO　GRAND　VIEW　AND　DOWN　THE　GRAND　VIEW　TRAIL

X。　A　NEW　〃RIM〃　ROAD　AND　TRAIL　INTO　THE　SCENIC　HEART　OF　THE　CANYON

XI。　FROM　EL　TOVAR　TO　BASS　CAMP　AND　DOWN　THE　BASS　TRAIL

XII。　ACROSS　THE　GRAND　CANYON　TO　POINT　SUBLIME

XIII。　HOW　THE　CANYON　WAS　FORMED

XIV。　THE　CANYONABOVE　AND　BELOW

XV。　THE　HOPI　HOUSE

XVI。　VISITING　INDIANS　AT　EL　TOVAR

XVII。　THE　NAVAHO　AND　HOPI　BLANKET　WEAVERS

XVIII。　PUEBLO　AND　NAVAHO　POTTERY　AND　SILVERWARE

XIX。　THE　HOPIS　AND　THEIR　SNARE　DANCE

XX。　AN　HISTORIC　TRAIL　ACROSS　THE　GRAND　CANYON　COUNTRY

XXI。　THE　NAVAHO　AND　HIS　DESERT　HOME

XXII。　FROM　EL　TOVAR　TO　THE　HAVASUPAI　INDIANS　AND　THEIR　WONDERFUL　CATARACT　CANYON　HOMES

XXIII。　THE　FIRST　DISCOVERERS　AND　INHABITANTS　OF　THE　GRAND　CANYON

XXIV。　EL　TOVAR　AND　CARDENAS　AND　THE　MODERN　DISCOVERY　OF　THE　GRAND　CANYON

XXV。　FRAY　MARCOS　AND　GARCES；　AND　THEIR　CONNECTION　WITH　THE　GRAND　CANYON

XXVI。　POWELL'S　AND　OTHER　EXPLORATIONS　OF　THE　GRAND　CANYON

XXVII。　INDIAN　LEGENDS　ABOUT　THE　GRAND　CANYON

XXVIII。　THE　COLORADO　RIVER　FROM　THE　MOUNTAINS　TO　THE　SEA

XXIX。　CLIMATE　AND　WEATHER　AT　THE　GRAND　CANYON

XXX。　THE　GRAND　CANYON　FOR　PLEASURE；　REST　AND　RECUPERATION

XXXI。　THE　STORY　OF　A　BOAT

XXXII。　THE　GRAND　CANYON　A　FOREST　RESERVE；　GAME　PRESERVE　AND　NATIONAL　MONUMENT



CHAPTER　I。　The　Grand　Canyon　Of　Arizona

Only　One　Grand　Canyon。　The　ancient　world　had　its　seven　wonders；　but　they　were　all　the　work　of　man。　The　modern　world　of　the　United　States　has　easily　its　seven　wondersNiagara；　the　Yellowstone；　Yosemite；　the　Natural　Bridge；　the　Mammoth　Cave；　the　Petrified　Forest　and　the　Grand　Canyon　of　Arizonabut　they　are　all　the　work　of　God。　It　is　hard；　in　studying　the　seven　wonders　of　the　ancients；　to　decide　which　is　the　most　wonderful；　but　now　that　the　Canyon　is　known　all　men　unite　in　affirming　that　the　greatest　of　all　wonders；　ancient　or　modern；　is　the　Grand　Canyon　of　Arizona。　Some　men　say　there　are　several　Grand　Canyons；　but　to　the　one　who　knows　there　is　but　one　Grand　Canyon。　The　use　of　the　word　to　name　any　lesser　gorge　is　a　sacrilege　as　well　as　a　misnomer。

Not　in　the　spirit　of　carping　criticism　or　of　reckless　boasting　are　these　words　uttered。　It　is　the　dictum　of　sober　truth。　It　is　wrong　to　even　unintentionally　mislead　a　whole　people　by　the　misuse　of　names。　Until　made　fully　aware　of　the　facts；　the　traveling　world　are　liable　to　error。　They　want　to　see　the　Grand　Canyon。　They　are　shown　these　inferior　gorges；　each　called　the　Grand　Canyon；　and；　because　they　do　not　know；　they　accept　the　half…truth。　The　other　canyons　they　see　are　great　enough　in　themselves　to　claim　their　closest　study；　and　worthy　to　have　distinctive　names　bestowed　upon　them。　But；　as　Clarence　Dutton；　the　eminent　geologist；　has　well　said　in　his　important　scientific　monograph　written　for　the　United　States　Geological　Survey：　〃The　name　Grand　Canyon　repeatedly　has　been　infringed　for　purposes　of　advertisement。　The　Canyon　of　the　Yellowstone　has　been　called　'The　Grand　Canyon。'　A　more　flagrant　piracy　is　the　naming　of　the　gorge　of　the　Arkansas　River　'The　Grand　Canyon　of　Colorado；'　and　many　persons　who　have　visited　it　have　been　persuaded　that　they　have　seen　the　great　chasm。　These　river　valleys　are　certainly　very　pleasing　and　picturesque；　but　there　is　no　more　comparison　between　them　and　the　mighty　chasm　of　the　Colorado　River　than　there　is　between　the　Alleghanies　and　the　Himalayas。

Sublimity　of　the　Grand　Canyon。　〃Those　who　have　long　and　carefully　studied　the　Grand　Canyon　of　the　Colorado　do　not　hesitate　for　a　moment　to　pronounce　it　by　far　the　most　sublime　of　all　earthly　spectacles。　If　its　sublimity　consisted　only　in　its　dimensions；　it　could　be　set　forth　in　a　single　sentence。　It　is　more　than　two　hundred　miles　long；　from　five　to　twelve　miles　wide；　and　from　five　thousand　to　six　thousand　feet　deep。　There　are　in　the　world　valleys　which　are　longer　and　a　few　which　are　deeper。　There　are　valleys　flanked　by　summits　loftier　than　the　palisades　of　the　Kaibab。　Still　the　Grand　Canyon　is　the　sublimest　thing　on　earth。　It　is　so　not　alone　by　virtue　of　its　magnitudes；　but　by　virtue　of　the　whole　its　tout　ensemble。〃

What；　then；　is　this　Grand　Canyon；　for　which　its　friends　dare　to　make　so　large　and　bold　a　claim？

It　is　a　portiona　very　small　portionof　the　waterway　of　the　Colorado　River；　and　it　is　so　named　to　differentiate　it　from　the　other　canyons　of　the　same　river。　The　canyon　system　of　the　Colorado　River　is　as　vast　in　its　extent　as　is　the　Grand　Canyon　in　its　quality　of　sublimity。　For　it　consists　of　such　a　maze　of　canyonsthe　main　canyons　through　which　the　river　itself　runs；　the　canyons　through　which　its　tributaries　run；　the　numberless　canyons　tributary　to　the　tributary　canyons；　the　canyons　within　canyons；　that；　upon　the　word　of　no　less　an　authority　than　Major　Powell；　I　assert　that　if　these　canyons　were　placed　end　for　end　in　a　straight　line　they　would　reach　over　twenty　thousand　miles！　Is　it　possible　for　the　human　mind　to　conceive　a　canyon　system　so　vast　that；　if　it　were　so　placed；　it　would　nearly　belt　the　habitable　globe？

Impression　on　Beholders。　And　the　principal　member　of　this　great　system　has　been　named　The　Grand　Canyon；　as　a　conscious　and　meaningful　tribute　to　its　vastness；　its　sublimity；　its　grandeur　and　its　awesomeness。　It　is　unique；　it　stands　alone。　Though　only　two　hundred　and　seventeen　miles　long；　it　expresses　within　that　distance　more　than　any　one　human　mind　yet　has　been　able　to　comprehend　or　interpret　to　the　world。　Famous　word…masters　have　attempted　it；　great　canvas　and　colormasters　have　tried　it；　but　all　alike　have　failed。　It　is　one　of　the　few　things　that　man　is　utterly　unable　to　imagine　until　he　comes　i