the land of footprints-第12部分
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pint measure。
〃There；〃 concluded F。； 〃if you drink that and come back again to…morrow for treatment； I'll believe you ARE sick。〃
Without undue pride I would like to record that I was the first to think of putting in a peculiarly nauseous gun oil； and thereby acquired a reputation of making tremendous medicine。
So implicit is this faith in white man's medicine that at one of the Government posts we were approached by one of the secondary chiefs of the district。 He was a very nifty savage； dressed for calling； with his hair done in ropes like a French poodle's； his skin carefully oiled and reddened； his armlets and necklets polished； and with the ceremonial ball of black feathers on the end of his long spear。 His gait was the peculiar mincing teeter of savage conventional society。 According to custom； he approached unsmiling； spat carefully in his palm； and shook hands。 Then he squatted and waited。
〃What is it？〃 we asked after it became evident he really wanted something besides the pleasure of our company。
〃N'dowa…medicine；〃 said he。
〃Why do you not go the Government dispensary？〃 we demanded。
〃The doctor there is an Indian； I want REAL medicine； white man's medicine；〃 he explained。
Immensely flattered； of course； we wanted further to know what ailed him。
〃Nothing；〃 said he blandly； 〃nothing at all； but it seemed an excellent chance to get good medicine。〃
After the clinic was all attended to； we retired to our tents and the screeching…hot bath so grateful in the tropics。 When we emerged； in our mosquito boots and pajamas； the daylight was gone。 Scores of little blazes licked and leaped in the velvet blackness round about； casting the undergrowth and the lower branches of the trees into flat planes like the cardboard of a stage setting。 Cheerful； squatted figures sat in silhouette or in the relief of chance high light。 Long switches of meat roasted before the fires。 A hum of talk； bursts of laughter； the crooning of minor chants mingled with the crackling of thorns。 Before our tents stood the table set for supper。 Beyond it lay the pile of firewood； later to be burned on the altar of our safety against beasts。 The moonlight was casting milky shadows over the river and under the trees opposite。 In those shadows gleamed many fireflies。 Overhead were millions of stars； and a little breeze that wandered through upper branches。
But in Equatorial Africa the simple bands of velvet black； against the spangled brightnesses that make up the visual night world； must give way in interest to the other world of sound。 The air hums with an undertone of insects； the plain and hill and jungle are populous with voices furtive or bold。 In daytime one sees animals enough； in all conscience； but only at night does he sense the almost oppressive feeling of the teeming life about him。 The darkness is peopled。 Zebra bark； bucks blow or snort or make the weird noises of their respective species； hyenas howl； out of an immense simian silence a group of monkeys suddenly break into chatterings； ostriches utter their deep hollow boom； small things scurry and squeak； a certain weird bird of the curlew or plover sort wails like a lonesome soul。 Especially by the river； as here； are the boomings of the weirdest of weird bullfrogs； and the splashings and swishings of crocodile and hippopotamus。 One is impressed with the busyness of the world surrounding him； every bird or beast； the hunter and the hunted； is the centre of many important affairs。 The world swarms。
And then； some miles away a lion roars； the earth and air vibrating to the sheer power of the sound。 The world falls to a blank dead silence。 For a full minute every living creature of the jungle or of the veldt holds its breath。 Their lord has spoken。
After dinner we sat in our canvas chairs； smoking。 The guard fire in front of our tent had been lit。 On the other side of it stood one of our askaris leaning on his musket。 He and his three companions； turn about； keep the flames bright against the fiercer creatures。
After a time we grew sleepy。 I called Saa…sita and entrusted to him my watch。 On the crystal of this I had pasted a small piece of surgeon's plaster。 When the hour hand reached the surgeon's plaster； he must wake us up。 Saa…sita was a very conscientious and careful man。 One day I took some time hitching my pedometer properly to his belt： I could not wear it effectively myself because I was on horseback。 At the end of the ten…hour march it registered a mile and a fraction。 Saa…sita explained that he wished to take especial care of it； so he had wrapped it in a cloth and carried it all day in his hand！
We turned in。 As I reached over to extinguish the lantern I issued my last command for the day。
〃Watcha kalele； Saa…sita；〃 I told the askari； at once he lifted up his voice to repeat my words。 〃Watcha kalele！〃 Immediately from the Responsible all over camp the word came back…from gunbearers； from M'ganga； from tent boys…〃kalele！ kalele！ kalele！〃
Thus commanded； the boisterous fun； the croon of intimate talk； the gently rising and falling tide of melody fell to complete silence。 Only remained the crackling of the fire and the innumerable voices of the tropical night。
VIII。 THE RIVER JUNGLE
We camped along this river for several weeks； poking indefinitely and happily around the country in all directions to see what we could see。 Generally we went together； for neither B。 nor myself had been tried out as yet on dangerous game…those easy rhinos hardly counted…and I think we both preferred to feel that we had backing until we knew what our nerves were going to do with us。 Nevertheless； occasionally； I would take Memba Sasa and go out for a little purposeless stroll a few miles up or down river。 Sometimes we skirted the jungle； sometimes we held as near as possible to the river's bank； sometimes we cut loose and rambled through the dry； crackling scrub over the low volcanic hills of the arid country outside。
Nothing can equal the intense interest of the most ordinary walk in Africa。 It is the only country I know of where a man is thoroughly and continuously alive。 Often when riding horseback with the dogs in my California home I have watched them in envy of the keen； alert interest they took in every stone； stick； and bush； in every sight； sound； and smell。 With equal frequency I have expressed that envy； but as something unattainable to a human being's more phlegmatic make…up。 In Africa one actually rises to continuous alertness。 There are dozy moments…except you curl up in a safe place for the PURPOSE of dozing； again just like the dog！ Every bush； every hollow； every high tuft of grass； every deep shadow must be scrutinized for danger。 It will not do to pass carelessly any possible lurking place。 At the same time the sense of hearing must be on guard； so that no break of twig or crash of bough can go unremarked。 Rhinoceroses conceal themselves most cannily； and have a deceitful habit of leaping from a nap into their swiftest stride。 Cobras and puff adders are scarce； to be sure； but very deadly。 Lions will generally give way； if not shot at or too closely pressed； nevertheless there is always the chance of cubs or too close a surprise。 Buffalo lurk daytimes in the deep thickets； but occasionally a rogue bull lives where your trail will lead。 These things do not happen often； but in the long run they surely do happen； and once is quite enough provided the beast gets in。
At first this continual alertness and tension is rather exhausting； but after a very short time it becomes second nature。 A sudden rustle the other side a bush no longer brings you up all standing with your heart in your throat； but you are aware of it； and you are facing the possible danger almost before your slower brain has issued any orders to that effect。
In rereading the above； I am afraid that I am conveying the idea that one here walks under the shadow of continual uneasiness。 This is not in the least so。 One enjoys the sun； and the birds and the little things。 He cultivates the great leisure of mind that shall fill the breadth of his outlook abroad over a newly wonderful world。 But underneath it all is the alertness； the responsiveness to quick reflexes of judgment and action； the intimate correlations to immediate environment which must characterize the instincts of the higher animals。 And it is good to live these things。
Along the edge of that river jungle were many strange and beautiful affairs。 I could slip along among the high clumps of the thicker bushes in such a manner as to be continually coming around unexpected bends。 Of such maneouvres are surprises made。 The graceful red impalla were here very abundant。 I would come on them； their heads up； their great ears flung forward； their noses twitching in inquiry of something they suspected but could not fully sense。 When slightly alarmed or suspicious the does always stood compactly in a herd； while the bucks remained discreetly in the background； their beautiful； branching； widespread horns showing over the backs of their harems。 The impalla is； in my opinion； one of the most beautiful and graceful of the African bucks； a perpetual delight to watch either standing or running。 These beasts are extraordinarily
