cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第48部分

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


a　Cypriote　inscription；　from　the　temple　of　Paphos；〃　which　would　suggest
from　their　appearance　that　gout　was　not　uncommon　even　within　the　temple
of　Venus。　In　continuation　he　writes；　page　210：

　　　　〃The　great　temple　of　Venus　was　situated　on　an
　　　　eminence；　which　at　present　is　at　a　distance　of　about
　　　　twenty…five　minutes'　walk　from　the　sea。　Some　parts
　　　　of　its　colossal　walls　are　still　standing；　defying　time　and
　　　　the　stone…cutter；　though　badly　chipped　by　the　latter。
　　　　One　of　the　wall…stones　measured　fifteen　feet　ten
　　　　inches　in　length；　by　seven　feet　eleven　inches　in　width
　　　　and　two　feet　five　inches　in　thickness。　The　stone　is
　　　　not　from　Cyprus；　but　being　a　kind　of　blue　granite；
　　　　must　have　been　imported　either　from　Cilicia　or　from
　　　　Egypt。

　　　　〃The　temple　as　rebuilt　by　Vespasian　seems　to　have
　　　　occupied　the　same　area　as　the　former　temple；　and　was
　　　　surrounded　by　a　peribolos；　or　outer　wall。　Of　this
　　　　a　few　huge　blocks　only　are　now　extant。　On　the　west
　　　　side　of　this　outer　wall　there　was　a　doorway　still
　　　　plainly　visible。　Its　width　was　seventeen　feet　nine
　　　　inches。　The　two　sockets　for　the　bolts　upon　which
　　　　the　door　swung　are　of　the　following　dimensions：
　　　　length　six　inches；　width　four　and　a　half　inches；　depth
　　　　three　and　a　half　inches。　The　south…east　wall；　I　ascertained；
　　　　by　excavating　its　whole　length；　was690　feet
　　　　long。　The　length　of　the　west　side　I　could　only　trace
　　　　as　far　as　272　feet；　its　continuance　being　hiddenbeneath
　　　　the　houses　of　Kouklia。　The　length　of　the　other　two
　　　　sides　I　was　unable　to　ascertain　for　similarreasons。
　　　　The　walls　of　the　temple　itself；　made　of　the　kind　of
　　　　stone　previously　mentioned；　but　not　in　such　huge
　　　　blocks；　I　was　able　to　trace　correctly；　bydint　of
　　　　patience；　and　though　very　little　is　seen　above　ground；
　　　　yet；　strange　to　say；　the　four　corner…stonesare　still
　　　　standing。　The　north…east　corner…stone　iscased　in
　　　　a　house　in　Kouklia；　forming　part　of　its　wall；　that
　　　　of　the　north…west　stands　in　a　cross…street　of　the　village
　　　　by　itself。　Some　European　travellers　have　mistaken　it
　　　　from　its　present　shape　for　the　emblematic　cone　of
　　　　Venus。　The　south…east　corner　stands　also　by　itself
　　　　in　an　open　field；　where　the　Christian　population　of
　　　　Kouklia　burn　lamps　and　little　wax…candles；　but　in
　　　　honour　of　whom；　or　for　what　purpose；　I　did　not
　　　　inquire。　The　fourth　corner…stone　likewise　forms　part
　　　　of　a　modern　dwelling…house。

　　　　〃The　temple　was　oblong　and　of　the　following
　　　　dimensions：　the　eastern　and　western　walls　measure
　　　　221　feet；　and　the　two　other　sides　167　feet。　I　cannot
　　　　vouch　for　the　exact　measurement　on　account　of　the
　　　　difficulties　I　had　to　encounter；　nevertheless　the　difference
　　　　can　be　of　some　inches　only。　The　corner…stone　of
　　　　the　north…west　side　has　a　hole　in　it　thirteen　inches　in
　　　　diameter；　a　similar　hole　also　exists　in　the　south…west
　　　　corner　of　the　outer　wall。　As　the　temple　at　Paphos
　　　　possessed　an　oracle；　these　strange　holes；　which　go
　　　　through　the　entire　stone；　may　have　been　connected
　　　　with　it。　This　at　least　was　the　opinion　of　Dr。
　　　　Friederichs　when　he　came　to　pay　me　a　visit　at
　　　　Paphos。

　　　　〃From　this　spot；　if　a　person　stand　upon　this　huge
　　　　perforated　stone；　he　can　produce　a　clear　and　fine　echo
　　　　of　a　phrase　of　three　or　four　words；　pronounced　in　a
　　　　hollow　tone　of　voice。〃

It　is　quite　possible　that　the　tricks　of　acoustics　may　have　been
practised　by　the　priests　who　officiated　at　oracular　shrines；　which　would
have　awed　the　ignorant　multitude；　as　in　sacred　groves　a　tree　might　have
been　made　to　speak　by　the　simple　contrivance　of　a　man　concealed　within
the　hollow　stem；　which　to　outward　appearance　would　have　been　considered
solid。　The　devices　of　priestcraft　to　bring　grist　to　their　mill　are　not
yet　obsolete；　as　will　be　seen　in　many　of　the　monasteries　of　Cyprus。

All　the　grandeur　of　ancient　days　was　now　represented　by　the　heaps　of
stones　and　the　rock　caverns　which　mark　the　site　of　Paphos。　What　became
of　Venus　after　her　appearance　upon　this　shore　may　be　left　to　the
imagination；　why　she　is　represented　by　the　exceedingly　plain　women　of
modern　Cyprus　surpasses　the　imagination。　Perhaps　the　immorality
connected　with　the　ancient　worship　of　the　goddess　of　beauty　and　of　love
invoked　a　curse　upon　the　descendants　in　the　shape　of　〃baggy　trousers；
high　boots；　and　ugliness：〃　to　which　dirt　has　been　a　painful　addition。



CHAPTER　IX。

FROM　BAFFO　TO　LIMASOL。

We　left　Ktima　on　23rd　April　for　Limasol。　The　weather　was　now　perfect　for
out…door　life；　the　thermometer　52　degrees　at　7　A。M。；　and　70　degrees　at　3
P。M。　The　route　was　agreeable；　the　crops　were　well　irrigated　by　numerous
streams　led　from　the　mountains；　and　the　country　generally　was　green　and
well　wooded。　After　a　march　of　fourteen　miles；　during　which　we　had　passed
the　ruins　of　several　ancient　aqueducts；　we　arrived　at　a　running　stream
which　issued　from　a　narrow　valley　between　cliffs　and　hills　and　emptied
itself　upon　the　sea…beach。　A　number　of　tamarisks　formed　a　jungle　near
the　mouth；　and　the　banks　were　a　bright　rose…colour；　owing　to　the　full
bloom　of　thickets　of　oleanders。　This　was　a　charming　halting…place；　and
as　the　beach　was　strewn　with　dry　timber　that　had　been　brought　down　from
the　mountains　during　the　season　when　the　stream　was　powerful；　we　should
have　a　good　supply　of　fuel　in　addition　to　fresh　water。　The　route　had
been　along　the　flat　parallel　with　the　sea　from　Ktima；　and　I　noticed　a
wonderful　change　in　the　pace　of　the　camels；　as　I　had　summoned　Iiani　when
at　the　capital　of　the　district　before　the　Cadi　at　the　Konak；　and　the
chief　commissioner　had　added　his　voice　to　the　threat　and　monitions　he
had　received　concerning　his　future　conduct　regarding　early　starting　and
attention　to　my　orders。　Captain　Wauchope　had　kindly　furnished　me　with　an
excellent　Turkish　zaphtieh；　or　mounted　policeman；　whose　red　jacket　and
fez　commanded　a　certain　respect。　This　man　was　mounted　upon　a　strong；
well…built；　and　exceedingly　active　pony；　or　small　horse；　which　led　the
way；　as　our　new　guide　thoroughly　knew　the　country。

While　all　hands　were　pitching　the　tent　upon　a　sandy　turf　within　a　few
yards　of　the　sea…beach　I　took　the　dogs　for　a　ramble　up　the
thickly…wooded　valley　along　the　banks　of　the　stream；　as　I　had　observed　a
number　of　blue…rock　pigeons　among　the　white　cliffs；　and　I　thought　I
might　perhaps　find　a　hare　for　the　evening　stew。　I　killed　some　pigeons；
but　did　not　move　a　hare；　although　the　dogs　worked　through　most　promising
ground；　where　green　crops　upon　the　flat　bottom　surrounded　by　thick
coverts　afford　both　food　and　shelter。　We　were　returning　to　camp　when　I
suddenly　heard　Merry　and　Shot　barking　savagely　in　some　thick　bushes　upon
the　steep　bank　of　the　stream。　At　first　I　thought　they　had　found　a
hedgehog；　which　was　always　Shot's　amusement；　as　he　constantly　brought
them　into　camp　after　he　had　managed　to　obtain　a　hold　of　their　prickly
bodies。　The　barking　continued；　and　as　I　could　not　penetrate　the　bush；　I
called　the　dogs　off。　They　joined　me　almost　immediately；　looking　rather
scared。　It　now　occurred　to　me　that　they　might　have　found　a　snake；　as　a
few　days　ago　I　had　heard　Merry　barking　in　a　similar　manner；　and　upon
joining　him　I　had　discovered　a　snake　coiled　up　with　head　erect　in　an
attitude　of　defence。　I　had　killed　the　snake　and　scolded　the　dog；　as　I
feared　he　would　come　to　an　untimely　end；　should　he　commence　snake…
hunting　in　so　prolific　a　field　as　Cyprus。　Since　that　time　all　the　dogs
hunted　the　countless　lizards　which　ran　across　the　path　during　the　march；
and　Shot　was　most　determined　in　his　endeavours　to　scratch　them　out　of
their　holes。

I　had　called　my　three　dogs　together；　and　we　were　walking　across　a　field
of　green　wheat；　when　I　suddenly　missed　Shot；　and　he　was　discovered　lying
down　about　fifty　paces　in　our　rear。　Merry；　who　usually　was　pluck　and
energy　itself；　was　following　at　my　heels　and　looking　stupid　and　subdued。
This　dog　was　indomitable；　and　his　fault　was　wildness　at　the　commencement
of　the　day；　I　could　not　now　induce　him　to　hunt；　and　his　eyes　had　a
peculiar　expression；　as　though　his　system　had　suffered　some　severe
shock。　Shot　came　slowly　when　I　called　him；　but　he　walked　with
difficulty；　and　his　jaws　were　swollen。　I　now　felt　sure　that　the　dogs
were　bitten　by　a　snake；　which　they　had　been　baying　when　I　heard　them　in
the　bush　about　five　minutes　before。　We　were　very　near　the　camp；　and　the
dog　crept　home　slowly　at　my　heels。　Upon　examination　there　was　no　doubt
of　the　cause；　Shot　had　wounds　of　a　snake's　fangs　upon　his　lip；　under　the
eye；　and　upon　one　ear；　he　must　have　been　the　first　bitten；　as　he　had
evidently　received　the　greatest　discharge　of　poison。　Merry　was　bitten　in
the　mouth　and　in　one　ear；　both　of　which　were　already　swollen；　but　not　to
the　same　degree　as　Shot；　who；　within　an　hour；　had　a　head　as　large　as　a
small　calf's；　and　his　eyes　were　completely　closed。　I　had　not　the
slightest　hope　of　his　recovery；　as　his　throat　had　swollen　to　an　enormous
size；　which　threatened　suffocation。　I　could　do　nothing　for　the　poor　dogs
but　oil　their　mouths；　although　knew　that　the　poison　would　assuredly
spread　throughout　the　system。　The　dogs　ha