cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第4部分

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the　rain　has　percolated　through　the　ground；　it　has　become　so　thoroughly
impregnated　with　sulphate　of　lime　that　it　has　deposited　a　series　of
strata　some　six　or　seven　feet　below　the　surface；　which　form　a　flaky
subterranean　pavement。　The　ancients　selected　this　shallow　soil　of　a
higher　level　for　a　burial…ground；　and　they　burrowed　beneath　the　stratum
of　stony　deposit　to　form　their　tombs。　One　of　the　chief　occupations　of
modern　Cypriotes　appears　to　be　the　despoiling　of　the　dead；　thus　the
entire　sides　of　the　plateau…face　for　a　distance　of　about　two　miles　are
burrowed　into　thousands　of　holes　to　a　depth　of　ten　and　twelve　feet　in
search　of　hidden　treasures。　If　the　same　amount　of　labour　had　been
expended　in　the　tillage　of　the　surface；　the　result　would　have　been　far
more　profitable。　A　small　proportion　of　the　land　upon　the　outskirts　of
the　town　was　cultivated；　some　had　been　recently　ploughed；　while　in　other
plots　the　wheat　had　appeared　above　the　surface。　Water　is　generally　found
at　eight　or　nine　feet　below　the　level；　but　this　is　of　an　inferior
description；　and　the　town　and　environs　are　well　supplied　by　an　aqueduct
which　conveys　the　water　from　powerful　springs　about　seven　miles　to　the
west　of　Larnaca；　near　Arpera。　This　useful　work　was　constructed　according
to　the　will　of　a　former　pacha；　who　bequeathed　the　sum　required；　for　a
public　benefit。

Large　flocks　of　sheep　were　grazing　in　various　portions　of　the
uncultivated　plain。　At　first　sight　they　appeared　to　be　only　searching
for　food　among　the　stones　and　dust；　but　upon　close　examination　I　found　a
peculiar　fleshy　herb　something　like　the　stone…crop　which　grows　upon　the
old　walls　and　rocks　of　England。　This　plant　was　exceedingly　salt；　and　the
sheep　devoured　it　with　avidity；　and　were　in　fair　condition。　The　wool　was
long；　but　of　a　coarse　wiry　texture；　and　much　impaired　by　the　adherence
of　thistles　and　other　prickly　plants。　The　musical　sound　of　distant　bells
denoted　the　arrival　of　a　long　string　of　camels；　laden　with　immense　bales
of　unpressed　cotton　on　their　way　to　the　port　of　Larnaca。　Each　animal
carried　two　bales；　and　I　observed　that　the　saddles　and　pads　were　in
excellent　order；　the　camels　well　fed；　and　strongly　contrasting　with　the
cruel　carelessness　of　the　camel　owners　of　Egypt；　whose　beasts　are　galled
into　terrible　sores　from　the　want　of　padding　in　their　packs。　The　cotton
had　been　cleaned　upon　the　plantation；　but　it　would　be　subjected　to
hydraulic　pressure　and　packed　in　the　usual　iron…bound　bales　for
shipment；　upon　arrival　in　the　stores　of　Larnaca。

It　was　impossible　to　resist　a　feeling　of　depression　upon　strolling
around　the　environs　of　the　town　and　regarding　the　barren　aspect　of　the
distant　country。　Every　inch　of　this　fertile　plain　should　be　cultivated；
and　numerous　villages　should　be　dotted　upon　the　extensive　surface。
〃Thorns　also　and　thistles　shall　it　bring　forth〃　was　a　curse　that
appeared　to　have　adhered　to　Cyprus。

It　was　unnecessary　to　seek　for　the　chief　cause　of　unhealthiness；　this
was　at　once　apparent　in　the　low　swamps　on　the　immediate　outskirts　of　the
town。　In　ancient　days　the　shallow　harbour　of　Cittium　existed　on　the　east
side　of　modern　Larnaca；　whether　from　a　silting　of　the　port；　or　from　the
gradual　alteration　in　the　level　of　the　Mediterranean；　the　old　harbour　no
longer　exists；　but　is　converted　into　a　miserable　swamp；　bordered　by　a
raised　beach　of　shingles　upon　the　seaboard。　The　earth　has　been　swept
down　by　the　rains；　and　the　sand　driven　in　by　the　sea；　while　man　stood
idly　by；　allowing　Nature　to　destroy　a　former　industry。　All　the　original
harbours　of　the　country　have　suffered　from　the　same　neglect。

There　was　little　to　be　seen　in　the　neighbourhood。　The　site　was　pointed
out　where　the　troops　were　encamped　in　the　tremendous　heat　of　July　in　the
close　vicinity　of　the　swampy　ground；　upon　pestiferous　soil；　and　the
usual　tales　of　commissariat　blunders　were　recounted。　Close　to　the
borders　of　this　unhealthy　spot；　but　about　twenty　feet　above　the　level　of
the　lowest　morass；　stands　the　convent　belonging　to　the　Sisters　of
Charity；　which　includes　a　school；　in　addition　to　a　hospital。　Great
kindness　was　shown　by　these　excellent　ladies　to　many　English　sufferers；
and　their　establishment　deserves　a　liberal　support　from　public
contributions。

I　walked　through　the　bazaar　of　Larnaca；　this　is　situated　at　the　west　end
of　the　town　near　the　fort；　close　to　which　there　is　a　public　fountain
supplied　by　the　aqueduct　to　which　I　have　already　alluded。　Brass　taps
were　arranged　around　the　covered　stone　reservoir；　but　I　remarked　a
distressing　waste　of　water；　as　a　continual　flow　escaped　from　an
uncontrolled　shoot　which　poured　in　a　large　volume　uselessly　into　the
street。　Within　a　few　yards　of　the　reservoir　was　a　solitary　old　banian
tree　（ficus　religiosa）；　around　which　a　crowd　of　donkeys　waited；　laden
with　panniers　containing　large　earthen　jars；　which　in　their　turn　were　to
be　filled　with　the　pure　water　of　the　Arpera　springs。

Although　the　crowd　was　large；　and　all　were　busied　in　filling　their　jars
and　loading　their　respective　animals；　there　was　no　jostling　or
quarrelling　for　precedence；　but　every　individual　was　a　pattern　of
patience　and　good　humour。　Mohammedans　and　Cypriotes　thronged　together　in
the　same　employment；　and　the　orderly　behaviour　in　the　absence　of　police
supervision　formed　a　strong　contrast　to　the　crowds　in　England。

The　Mosque　being　within　a　few　feet　of　them；　the　Mussulmans　could　perform
their　ablutions　at　the　threshold。　Around　the　font；　women　were
intermingled　with　a　crowd　of　men　and　boys。　The　girls　and　lads　were
regular　in　features　and　good…looking；　though　dirt　and　torn　clothing　of
various　gaudy　colours　gave　a　picturesque；　but　hardly　an　attractive；
appearance　to　the　group。　The　bazaar　was　entered　at　right　angles　with　the
quay；　the　streets　were　paved　with　stones　of　irregular　size；　sloping　from
both　sides　towards　the　centre；　which　formed　the　gutter。　Camels；　mules；
bullock…carts；　and　the　omnipresent　donkeys　thronged　the　narrow　streets；
either　laden　with　produce　for　the　quay；　or　returning　after　having
delivered　their　heavy　loads。　The　donkeys　were　very　large　and　were　mostly
dark　brown；　with　considerable　length　of　hair。　In　like　manner　with　the
camels；　they　were　carefully　protected　by　thick　and　well　stuffed　packs；
or　saddles；　and　were　accordingly　free　from　sores。　They　appeared　to　be
exceedingly　docile　and　intelligent；　and　did　not　require　the　incessant
belabouring　to　which　the　ass　of　other　countries　is　the　victim。　Large
droves　of　these　animals；　each　laden　with　three　heavy　squared　stones　for
building；　picked　their　way　through　the　narrow　streets；　and　seemed　to
know　exactly　the　space　required　for　their　panniers；　as　they　never
collided　with　either　carts　or　passengers。

The　shops　of　the　bazaar　were　all　open；　and　contained　the　supplies
usually　seen　in　Turkish　marketsvegetables；　meat；　and　a　predominance　of
native　sweets　and　confectionery；　in　addition　to　stores　of　groceries；　and
of　copper　and　brass　utensils。　An　absence　of　fish　proved　the　general
indolence　of　the　people；　there　is　abundance　in　the　sea；　but　there　are
few　fishermen。

An　hour's　stroll　was　quite　sufficient　for　one　to　form　an　opinion　of
Larnaca。　A　good　roadstead　and　safe　anchorage　offer　great　advantages；　but
until　some　protection　shall　be　afforded　that　will　enable　boats　to　land
in　all　weathers　Larnaca　can　never　be　accepted　as　a　port。　There　is　shoal
water　for　a　distance　of　about　two　hundred　yards　from　the　shore；　which
causes　a　violent　surf　even　in　a　moderate　breeze；　and　frequently　prevents
all　communication　with　the　shipping。　The　quay　was　in　many　places
undermined　by　the　action　of　the　waves；　and　it　would　be　necessary　to
create　an　entirely　new　front　by　sinking　a　foundation　for　a　sea…wall　some
yards　in　advance　of　the　present　face。　There　would　be　no　engineering
difficulty　in　the　formation　of　a　boat…harbour；　to　combine　by　extensive
pile…jetties　the　facility　of　landing　in　all　weathers。　A　very　cursory
view　of　Larnaca　exhibited　a　true　picture　of　its　miserable　financial
position。　The　numerous　stores　kept　by　Europeans　were　the　result　of　a
spasmodic　impulse。　There　was　no　wholesome　trade；　those　who　represented
the　commercial　element　were　for　the　most　part　unfortunates　who　had
rushed　to　Cyprus　at　the　first　intelligence　of　the　British　occupation；
strong　in　expectations　of　a　golden　harvest。　The　sudden　withdrawal　of　the
large　military　force　left　Larnaca　in　the　condition　of　streets　full　of
sellers；　but　denuded　of　buyers。　The　stores　were　supplied　with　the　usual
amount　of　liquors；　and　tins　of　preserved　provisions；　none　of　the
imported　articles　were　adapted　for　native　requirements；　an　utter
stagnation　of　trade　was　the　consequence；　and　prices　fell　below　the　cost
of　home　production。　The　preceding　year　had　been　exceptionally　sickly；
many　of　the　storekeepers　were　suffering　from　the　effects　of　fever；
which；　combined　with　the　depression　of　spirits　caused　by　ruined
prospects；　produced　a　condition　of　total　collapse；　from　which　there　was
only　one　reliefthat　of　writing　to　the　newspapers　and　abusing　the
Government　and　the　island　generally。

There　must　always　be　martyrssomebody　must　be　sacrificedwhether　burnt
at　the　stake　for　religious　principles；　or　put　in　a　bell…tent