cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第25部分

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years　ago。

As　we　approached　Gallibornu　by　a　mountain　path　the　Turks　assured　me　that
we　should　find　good　drinking…water；　we　were　all　thirsty；　including　the
dogs；　who　had　drunk　nothing　for　some　hours。　At　length；　at　a　considerable
elevation　between　two　hills；　we　reached　a　spring；　and　I　was　shown　a　well
where　the　water　was　only　a　few　feet　from　the　surface。　The　Turks　now
pointed　to　the　perpendicular　face　of　a　cliff　and　desired　me　to　follow
them；　at　the　same　time　I　could　not　understand　their　attempted
explanations　either　by　word　or　pantomime。　We　kept　on　an　extremely　narrow
path　which　skirted　the　steep　side　of　the　slope；　and　presently　arrived　at
a　ledge　about　sixteen　inches　wide　upon　the　perpendicular　face　of　the
cliff；　which　descended　sheer　for　a　considerable　depth　beneath。　I　was
requested　to　leave　my　gun　against　a　rock　and　to　follow。　It　was　all　very
well　for　these　people；　who　knew　exactly　where　they　were　going；　but　I　had
not　the　slightest　idea　of　my　destination；　unless　it　should　be　the　bottom
of　the　cliff；　which　appeared　to　me　most　probable；　if　I；　who　was　many
inches　broader　in　the　shoulders　than　my　guides；　should　be　expected　to
join　in　the　game　of　〃follow　the　leader〃　upon　a　narrow　ledge　against　the
face　of　the　rock　which　afforded　no　hold　whatever。　I　was　not　so　fond　of
climbing　as　I　had　been　thirty　years　ago；　and　to　my　infinite　disgust　the
ledge；　which　was　already　horribly　small；　became　narrower　as　we
proceeded。　There　was　a　nasty　projecting　corner　to　turn；　and　at　this
point　I　saw　my　guides　look　down　below；　and　I　fancied　they　were
speculating　upon　the　depth。　Instead　of　this；　the　leader　began　to　descend
the　perpendicular　face　by　small　ladder…like　steps　hewn　in　the　rock；　and
in　this　manner　gained　another　ledge　not　quite　six　feet　below。　We　all
reached　this　precarious　shelf；　and　the　guide；　having　turned；　continued
for　some　twenty　or　thirty　yards　in　an　exactly　contrary　direction　to　the
ledge　above　us；　by　which　we　had　just　arrived；　we　were　thus　retracing　our
steps　upon　a　similar　ledge　at　a　lower　level。　Suddenly　the　leader
stopped；　and　stooping　low；　crept　into　a　square　aperture　that　had　been
carefully　cut　out　of　the　rock　face　to　form　an　entrance。　This　passage
inclined　slightly　inwards；　and　after　a　few　paces　forward；　with　the　body
curved　in　the　uncomfortable　form　of　a　capital　C；　we　arrived　in　a
spacious　gallery　cut　into　a　succession　of　arches；　the　centre　of　which
was　six　feet　high。　A　small　window；　about　three　feet　by　two；　was　cut
through　the　rock　to　admit　light　and　air；　from　which　I　could　with　a　rifle
have　completely　commanded　the　glen　below　and　the　approach　to　the　left。
There　was　no　ledge　beneath　the　window；　but　simply　the　sheer　precipice　of
the　smooth　cliff；　and　there　was　no　other　approach　to　this　extraordinary
place　of　refuge　except　that　by　which　we　had　arrived。　The　gallery　was
neatly　cut；　and　extended　for　an　unknown　distance：　several　other
galleries；　arched　in　the　same　manner　and　of　the　same　size；　branched　off
at　right　angles　with　that　we　had　entered。　I　was　led　to　a　well；　which　was
represented　as　being　deep；　and　I　was　informed　that　the　hill　was
perforated　with　similar　galleries；　all　of　which　communicated　with　each
other。　I　much　regretted　that　we　were　unprovided　with　candles；　one　of　the
Turks　lighted　a　match；　but　it　only　served　to　increase　the　uncertainty　of
the　surrounding　darkness。

This　must　be　a　similar　cave…refuge　to　that　we　had　passed　about　four
miles　distant　when　on　our　way　from　Lithrankomi　to　Gallibornu；　and　it
deserves　a　minute　investigation。　As　I　could　see　nothing　beyond　about
thirty　feet　from　the　window；　owing　to　the　darkness；　I　cannot　give　any
account　of　the　actual　dimensions；　which　may　be　much　inferior　to　the
unlimited　descriptions　of　my　informants。　Upon　my　return　to　camp　I　had
the　benefit　of　my　interpreter；　and　the　story　was　repeated　that　no　one
knew　the　extent　of　the　excavations；　either　of　these　galleries　or　those
we　had　passed　during　our　journey。　I　have　never　seen　a　very　large　natural
cave　in　Cyprus；　although　the　caverns　beneath　the　superficial　stratum　of
sedimentary　rock　are　so　general。　The　presence　of　these　hollows；　and　the
soft　nature　of　the　calcareous　stone；　has　suggested　artificial　caves　to
the　ancients；　both　for　tombs　and　for　places　of　refuge。　Before　the
invention　of　gunpowder　it　would　have　been　impossible　to　reduce　a　fort
such　as　I　have　described；　except　by　starvation。　A　mine　sunk　vertically
from　above　would　in　the　present　day　destroy　the　subterranean　stronghold
at　the　first　explosion。

It　rained　more　or　less　every　day　during　our　stay　at　Gallibornu；　and
thunder　rolled　heavily　in　the　neighbourhood；　but　in　the　narrow　valley
between　lofty　hills　the　sky　view　was　so　limited　that　it　was　impossible
to　judge　of　the　impending　weather。　The　earth　was　too　slippery　for
camels；　which　I　had　engaged　with　an　excellent　Turk；　who　for　some　years
had　been　a　zaphtieh；　therefore　it　was　necessary　to　wait　patiently　until
the　surface　should　become　dry。　I　amused　myself　with　wandering　over　the
hills　with　my　dogs；　examining　the　rocks；　and　shooting　sufficient　game
for　our　own　use。　I　could　generally　bag　enough　for　my　lad　to　carry　home
conveniently　over　this　rugged　country；　and　a　hare　or　two　in　addition　to
partridges　were　more　appreciated　when　stewed　than　when　carried　up　the
precipitous　hills。　I　never　tasted　any　game　so　delicious　as　the　Cyprian
hares；　they　are　not　quite　so　red　or　curly　as　the　European　species；　but
the　flesh　is　exceedingly　rich；　and　possesses　a　peculiarly　gamey　flavour；
owing　to　the　aromatic　food　upon　which　they　live。　It　is　difficult　to
obtain　a　shot　in　the　thick　coverts　of　mastic　bush；　and　without　dogs　I　do
not　think　I　should　have　shot　one；　as　they　were　generally　in　dense
thickets　upon　the　mountain　sides；　through　which　beaters　could　have
hardly　moved。

The　high　cliffs　above　us　formed　an　excellent　example　of　an　old
sea…bottom；　showingthe　various　strata　of　sedimentary　deposits　at
different　periods。　I　made　a　collection　of　fossil　shells；　which　were　in
great　numbers　but　in　limited　variety；　and　chiefly　bivalves。

Although　the　village　of　Gallibornu　was　more　important　in　size　than　many
we　had　passed；　there　was　a　total　lack　of　supplies。　It　was　impossible　to
purchase　bread；　and　we　were　obliged　to　send　messengers　to　considerable
distances　to　procure　flour；　which　we　subsequently　employed　a　woman　to
bake。　The　people　generally　were　very　poor　throughout　the　country；　and
the　cultivated　area　appeared　insufficient　for　the　support　of　the
population。　Every　yard　of　land　was　ploughed；　but　the　entire　valley　of
Gallibornu　was　fallowed；　and　did　not　possess　one　blade　of　corn；　as　the
soil　required　rest　after　the　yield　of　the　previous　season。　None　of　these
people　have　an　idea　respecting　a　succession　of　crops　in　scientific
rotation；　therefore　a　loss　is　sustained　by　the　impoverishment　of　the
ground；　which　must　occasionally　lie　inactive　to　recover　its　fertility。
There　is　absolutely　no　provision　whatever　for　the　cattle　in　the　shape　of
root…crops　or　hay；　but　they　trust　entirely　to　the　bruised　barley…straw
and　such　seeds　as　the　cotton　and　lentil。　At　this　season　the　Carpas
district　possessed　an　important　advantage　in　the　variety　of　wild
vegetables　which　afforded　nourishment　for　man　and　beast；　the　valleys
teemed　with　wild　artichokes　and　with　a　variety　of　thistles；　whose
succulent　stems　were　a　favourite　food　for　both　oxen　and　camels。

The　leaf…stems　of　the　artichokes　were　peeled　and　eaten　raw　by　the
inhabitants；　but　as　these　people　are　accustomed　to　consume　all　kinds　of
uncooked　vegetables　and　unripe　fruits　few　civilised　persons　would
indulge　in　the　Cypriote　tastes。　We　found　the　artichoke　stems　uneatable
in　a　raw　state；　but　remarkably　good　when　peeled　and　stewed；　with　a　sauce
of　yolk　of　egg　beaten　up　with　oil；　salt；　pepper；　and　lemon…juice；　they
were　then　quite　equal　to　sea…kale。　There　is　a　general　neglect　in　the
cultivation　of　vegetables　which　I　cannot　understand；　as　agriculture　is
the　Cypriote's　vocation；　it　can　hardly　be　called　laziness；　as　they　are
most　industrious　in　their　fields；　and　expend　an　immense　amount　of　labour
in　erecting　stone　walls　to　retain　a　small　amount　of　soil　wherever　the
water…wash　from　a　higher　elevation　brings　with　it　a　deposit。　The
insignificant　terraces　thus　formed　by　earth　caught　in　its　descent　while
in　solution　appear　disproportioned　to　the　labour　of　their　construction；
and　the　laborious　system　would　suggest　an　extreme　scarcity　of　land
suitable　for　agricultural　operations。　I　believe　this　to　be　the　case；　and
that　a　serious　mistake　has　been　made　in　assuming　that　the　Crown
possesses　large　areas　of　land　that　may　eventually　become　of　great　value。
There　are　government　lands；　doubtless；　of　considerable　extent；　but　I
question　their　agricultural　importance；　and　whenever　the　ordnance…map　of
the　island　shall　be　completed　a　wild　confusion　will　be　discovered　in　the
discrepancy　of　title…deeds　with　the　amount　of　land　in　possession　of　the
owners。　I　have；　whilst　shooting　in　the　wild　tracts　of　scrub…covered
hills　and　mountains；　frequently　emerged　upon　clearings　of　considerable
extent；　where　the　natives　have　captured　a　fertile　plot　and　cleared　it
for　cultivation；　far　away　from　the　eyes　of　all　authorities。

I　believe　that　squattin