cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第16部分

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us　with　rose　and　orange…flower　water　as　we　passed；　the　omnipresent　dogs
yelled　and　barked　with　their　usual　threatening　demonstrations　at　the
heels　of　our　animals；　and　some　from　the　low　roofs　of　the　houses　were
unpleasantly　close　to　our　heads。　We　were　now　among　the　conical　mounds；
along　the　steep　sides　of　which　a　path　of　about　twelve　inches　width
appeared　to　invite　destruction；　as　the　loose　crumbling　material　rolled
down　the　deep　incline　beneath　the　hoofs　of　the　sure…footed　horses　and
mules。　These　creatures　had　a　disagreeable　habit　of　choosing　the　extreme
edge　of　the　narrow　ledge；　instead　of　hugging　the　safer　side；　and
although　no　great　precipice　existed；　the　fall　of　thirty　feet　into　the
rocky　stream　below　would　have　been　quite　as　effectual　as　a　greater　depth
in　breaking　necks　and　limbs。　We　again　entered　a　village；　where　a　large
plane…tree　formed　the　centre　of　a　small　open　space；　faced　on　either　side
by　a　cafe；　the　situation　being　attractive　during　summer　from　the　dense
shade　afforded　by　the　spreading　branches。　There　were　many　people　sitting
in　the　open　shed；　who　as　usual　rose　and　made　their　salutations　as　we
passed。　The　path　became　worse　as　we　proceeded；　and　we　at　length　emerged
from　the　long　string　of　contracted　villages　and　skirted　the　precipitous
sides　of　the　ravine；　which　formed　one　of　the　innumerable　gorges　between
the　conical　mounds　of　marls　and　alluvium　that　had　been　washed　from　a
higher　level　and　worn　into　heaps　by　the　action　of　rain　upon　the　unstable
surface。

About　a　mile　beyond　all　villages　we　skirted　the　stream　along　a　steep
bank；　from　which　point　we　looked　down　upon　the　roofs　of　houses　more　than
a　hundred　feet　below；　and　we　at　length　halted　and　dismounted　at　a　rocky
termination　of　the　gorge；　from　whence　issued　suddenly　the　celebrated
spring　of　Kythrea。

The　mountains　rose　abruptly　upon　either　side；　and　a　dry　ravine　above　the
rocks　upon　which　we　stood　exhibited　the　natural　channel　by　which　in
heavy　rains　the　surface…water　would　be　conducted　to　the　lower
stream…bed。　A　rough　arch　of　masonry　and　a　tunnel　in　the　rock　for　about
forty　feet　formed　the　embouchure；　from　which　the　water　issued　into　a
carefully　constructed　stone　aqueduct；　which　led　directly　to　the　first
mill　of　the　Kythrea　series；　about　a　hundred　and　twenty　yards　distant。
The　temperature　was　considerably　warmer　than　the　air；　but　I　had　no
thermometer　to　mark　the　difference。

The　aqueduct　would　have　carried　at　least　one…third　more　than　the　present
volume；　which　was　about　twenty…six　inches　deep；　and　three　feet　in　width。
The　water　was　beautifully　clear　and　the　current　rapid；　but　I　had　no
means　of　measuring　the　velocity。

The　stone…work　of　the　aqueduct；　always　moist　from　the　percolation；　must
form　a　charming　exhibition　of　maidenhair　ferns　during　summer…time；　as
the　crevices　were　all　occupied　by　plants；　whose　leaves；　even　at　this
season　（February）；　were　several　inches　in　length。

We　strolled　up　the　dry　ravine　above　the　spring；　and　ascended　the　hill　to
an　extensive　plateau；　upon　which　grew　two　or　three　caroub…trees；　here
was　a　sudden　change；　the　soil　was　red；　and　we　entered　the　compact　grey
limestone　（jurassic）　which　forms　the　Carpas　range。　On　the　extreme　verge
of　the　plateau　of　red　soil　we　had　an　admirable　example　of　the　formation
of　the　conical　mounds　of　earth；　two　or　three　of　which　already　existed；
while　others　were　in　process　of　development　from　the　melting…away　of　the
soil　during　heavy　rains。　As　the　surface　dissolved　under　the　action　of
rainfall；　it　flouted　down　the　steep　inclinations；　until　a　base　was
formed；　at　the　expense　of　the　upper　area；　by　degrees　gullies　were
created　in　the　rear；　and　these　would　rapidly　become　deeper　under　the
action　of　running　water；　until　they　reached　the　lower　level　of　the　base。
A　circle　thus　formed；　an　apex　would　be　the　natural　result　of　the
denudation　and　decay　of　the　upper　surface　which　would　produce　a　cone。　A
sudden　shower　compelled　us　to　take　refuge　beneath　a　caroub…tree　whose
dense　foliage　saved　us　from　a　thorough　soaking。　The　ground　having　become
slippery；　we　returned　upon　our　narrow　and　soapy　route　with　some　caution；
but　the　careful　animals　who　were　well　accustomed　to　these　dangerous
paths　carried　us　safely　to　our　camp。

It　is　extraordinary　that　the　water…power　of　Cyprus　has　of　late　years
been　so　neglected　by　the　authorities；　as　the　island　must　from　ancient
times　have　mainly　depended　upon　its　springs　in　the　absence　of　dependable
seasons。　Kythrea　is　an　example　of　the　importance　that　was　attached　to　a
stream　of　running　water；　as　the　town　was　established　by　the　Athenians；
and　in　former　ages　an　aqueduct　of　masonry　extended　for　twenty…five　miles
to　Salamis；　in　the　neighbourhood　of　which　ruins　of　the　old　work　are
still　existing。　If　the　seasons　of　Cyprus　have　undergone　a　change　since
the　forests　have　been　destroyed；　I　can　see　no　reason　for　the　innumerable
vestiges　of　ancient　water…works　throughout　the　country。　Wherever　an
important　spring　existed；　there　was　a　settlement　of　corresponding　extent
and　value；　which　suggests　that　the　rainfall　was　even　then　as　uncertain
as　at　the　present　day。　Every　spring　became　a　centre　of　attraction。　The
ruins　of　the　ancient　Kythrea　have　been　partially　excavated　by　the
indefatigable　General　di　Cesnola；　but　with　unimportant　results；　as　the
ground　is　under　artificial　irrigation；　and　is　in　the　highest
cultivation；　therefore　it　cannot　be　disturbed。

The　chief　industry　of　modern　times　which　adds　to　the　importance　of
Kythrea；　is　the　production　of　silk；　from　the　great　abundance　of
mulberry…trees　which　supply　the　necessary　food　for　the　silkworms；　but　it
has　suffered　to　a　considerable　degree；　in　common　with　most　silk…growing
districts　in　Cyprus；　by　the　want　of　foresight　of　the　producers；　these
people　have　within　the　last　few　years　sold　the　seed　in　such　extravagant
quantities　to　the　traders　of　Beyrout　as　to　leave　the　island　with　a　short
supply。　The　result　of　this　sacrifice　for　the　sake　of　ready　money　is　a
serious　reduction　in　the　general　produce；　and　in　many　portions　of　the
island　the　mulberry…trees　are　flourishing　without　a　silkworm　to　feed
upon　them。　The　thirty…two　flour…mills　of　Kythrea　are　worked　by　a　fall　of
400　feet　between　the　head…water　of　the　spring　to　the　base　of　the　lowest
mill　at　the　foot　of　the　mountains。　It　appeared　to　me　that　much　water　is
wasted　by　an　absence　of　scientific　control。　A　series　of　reservoirs　would
store　the　excess　during　the　hours　when　the　mills　are　idle　（similar　to
the　mill…ponds　in　England）；　but　as　there　is　no　municipal　law　upon　this
important　subject；　the　all…important　stream　is　much　neglected。　There　is
a　general　demand　for　grinding…power　throughout　Cyprus；　the　corn　is
brought　from　great　distances　to　the　mills　of　Kythrea　at　a　considerable
expense　of　transport；　I　have　met　droves　of　mules　laden　with　wheat　and
barley　on　their　way　from　Larnaca；　to　which　distant　spot　they　would　again
return　when　their　loads　should　have　been　reduced　to　flour。　In　the　face
of　this　difficulty　a　general　want　of　energy　and　of　the　necessary　capital
is　exhibited　by　the　total　neglect　of　wind…power；　in　a　country　where　a
steady　breeze　is　the　rule；　with　few　exceptions。　Throughout　the　great
plain　of　Messaria　windmills　would　be　invaluable；　both　for　grinding
purposes　and　for　raising　water；　nothing　would　be　more　simple　than　the
combination　of　the　wind…vane　with　the　cattle…pump；　but　this　great　and
almost　omnipresent　power　is　absolutely　ignored。

On　our　return　to　camp　in　the　evening；　I　resolved　to　have　a　quiet　day
with　my　dogs　on　the　following　morning；　when　I　could　stroll　at　my　leisure
over　the　mountains；　and　enjoy　myself　thoroughly　according　to　my　own
tastes；　sometimes　obtaining　a　shot　at　game；　and　observing　every　object
in　nature。

It　was　15th　February；　and　with　a　native　guide　and　interpreter　who　spoke
Arabic；　which　was　my　medium　of　dialogue；　I　started　to　cross　the
mountain…range　upon　the　east　of　the　well…known　five…knuckled…top　named
〃Pentadactylon。〃　At　the　expense　of　repetition　I　cannot　help　extracting
from　my　diary　the　exact　words　of　description　rough　from　the　first
impulse：　〃The　base　of　this　range　is　an　extraordinary　example　of　the
action　of　rainfall　in　melting　and　washing　down　into　conical　mounds
several　hundred　feet　high；　what　was　originally　a　high　level　of
continuous　but　alternating　strata　of　marls　and　alluvium　that　had
descended　from　the　higher　mountains。　These　vast　masses　are　in　a　chaotic
confusion　of　separate　heaps；　which　at　a　distance　resemble　volcanic
cones。　We　rode　up　precipitous　paths　edging　upon　deep　chasms　between
these　conical　hills；　and　emerged　upon　metamorphous　rocks　and　shale
mingled　in　curious　irregularity。　The　strata　of　shale　were　in　some
instances　nearly　vertical；　proving　the　disturbance　that　had　been
occasioned　by　a　subsequent　upheaval。　About　200　feet　above　this　formation
we　entered　upon　the　dark　grey　jurassic　limestone；　and　the　soil　became　a
rich　red　like　that　of　South　Devon。　The　rock　scenery　was　very　imposing　as
we　increased　our　altitude　and　arrived　upon　plateaux　of　considerable
extent。　There　can　be　no　doubt　that　these　natural　terrace…like　surfaces
and　various　hollows　accumulate　the　rainfall　of　a　great　area；　and　that
some　vast　subterranean　caverns　in　the　limestone