cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第14部分

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Troodos；　6590　feet；　Adelphe；　5380　feet；　Makhera；　4730　feet。　These　are
the　measurements　as　they　appear　upon　the　maps；　but　the　recent　survey　by
the　Royal　Engineers　has　reduced　the　height　of　Troodos　by　250　feet。　A
green　patch　at　the　foot　of　the　Carpas　range　denoted　the　position　of
Kythrea；　about　twelve　miles　distant　east；　watered　by　the　extraordinary
spring　which　has　rendered　it　famous　both　in　ancient　and　modern　times；
and　almost　at　our　feet；　or　a　mile　in　a　direct　line；　the　fortified
capital；　Lefkosia；　presented　the　usual　picturesque　appearance　of　a
Turkish　town。　A　combination　of　date…palms；　green　orange…gardens；
minarets；　mosques；　houses　quaint　in　their　irregularity　and　colouring；
and　the　grand　old　Venetian　Cathedral；　St。　Sophia；　towering　above　all
other　buildings；　were　enclosed　within　the　high　masonry　walls　and
bastions；　comprising　a　circuit　of　three　statute　miles。

The　position　of　Lefkosia　has　been　badly　chosen；　as　it　lies　in　the　flat；
and　must　always　have　been　exposed　to　a　plunging　fire　from　an　enemy
posted　upon　the　heights。　It　was　fortified　in　the　time　of　Constantine　the
Great；　but　in　1570　the　Venetians　demolished　the　old　works　and
constructed　the　present　elaborate　fortifications。　Although　the　walls　are
in　several　places　crumbling　into　ruins；　they　are　still　imposing　in
appearance；　and　present　a　clean　front　of　masonry　flanked　by　eleven
bastions；　and　entered　by　three　gates；　those　of　Baffo；　Famagousta；　and
Kyrenia。　The　original　ditch　can　be　traced　in　various　places；　but　the
counterscarp　and　glacis　have　been　destroyed；　therefore　the　soil　has
washed　in　during　the　rainy　seasons；　and　to　an　unpractised　eye　has
obliterated　all　traces　of　the　former　important　work。　On　the　other　hand；
the　disappearance　of　the　glacis　renders　the　height　of　the　walls　still
more　imposing；　as　they　rise　for　thirty　or　forty　feet　abruptly　from　the
level　base；　and　at　a　distance　maintain　the　appearance　of　good　condition。

It　is　difficult　to　imagine　the　reason　which　induced　the　Venetians　to
reproduce　Lefkosia　after　they　had　demolished　the　original
fortifications；　but　it　is　probable　that　they　had　already　erected　the
cathedral　before　the　expected　Turkish　invasion　rendered　the　improved
defences　necessary。　Although　in　the　early　days　of　artillery　shell…fire
was　unknown；　both　the　Turks　and　Venetians　possessed　guns　of　heavy
calibre　far　exceeding　any　that　were　used　in　Great　Britain　until　recent
years。　The　marble　shot　which　are　still　to　be　seen　in　Famagousta　are　the
same　which　served　in　the　defence　of　that　fortress　in　1571。　These　are
nearly　eleven　inches　in　diameter；　while　in　the　fort　of　Kyrenia　the　stone
shot　are　still　existing；　nineteen　inches　in　diameter；　composed　of　an
exceedingly　hard　and　heavy　metamorphic　rock。　The　long　bronze　guns　which
threw　the　smaller　stone　shot　of　from　six　to　eleven　inches；　would　command
a　far　more　extensive　range　than　the　interval　of　the　heights　which
dominate　Lefkosia；　and　even　should　battering　have　been　ineffective　at
that　distance　against　walls　of　masonry；　the　plunging　fire　would　have
destroyed　the　town　and　rendered　it　untenable。

Traces　are　still　visible　of　the　Turkish　approaches　when　the　town　was
successfully　carried　by　storm　on　the　9th　of　September；　1570；　after　a
siege　of　only　forty…five　days。　The　short　duration　of　the　attack　compared
to　the　length　of　time　required　in　the　siege　of　Famagousta；　which　at
length　succumbed　to　famine；　and　not　to　direct　assaults；　is　a　proof　of
the　faulty　strategical　position　of　the　fortress　of　Lefkosia。

Most　Turkish　towns　are　supplied　with　water　by　aqueducts　from　a
considerable　distance；　which　would　naturally　be　cut　by　an　enemy　as　the
first　operation。　The　water　is　brought　to　Lefkosia　from　the　hills　at　some
miles'　distance；　and　is　of　excellent　quality；　but　the　wells　of　the　town
must　be　contaminated　by　sewage；　as　there　is　no　means　of　effective
drainage　upon　the　dead　level　of　the　town；　unless　the　original　ditch　is
turned　into　a　pestilential　cesspool。　The　filth　of　centuries　must　have
been　imbibed　by　the　soil；　and　during　the　process　of　infiltration　must　in
successive　rainy　seasons　have　found　its　way　to　the　wells。　In　case　of
invasion；　Lefkosia　could　never　have　resisted　a　prolonged　siege；　as　in
the　absence　of　the　aqueduct　a　garrison　would　quickly　have　succumbed　to
disease　when　dependent　for　a　water…supply　upon　the　wells　alone。　When　the
Turks　captured　the　city　by　assault；　the　population　far　exceeded　that　of
the　present　time　（16；000）；　and　the　greater　portion　were　massacred　during
several　days　of　sack　and　pillage。　Some　thousands　of　girls　and　boys　were
transported　to　Constantinople。　Richard　I。　of　England　occupied　Lefkosia
without　resistance；　after　his　victory　over　Isaac　Comnenus。

Although　experienced　in　the　illusion　of　Turkish　towns；　I　was　more　than
disappointed　when　I　visited　the　interior　of　Lefkosia。　The　new　Chief
Commissioner；　Colonel　Biddulph；　R。A。；　C。B。；　had　already　improved　certain
streets；　and　the　eye　was　immediately　attracted　to　points　which　bore　the
unmistakable　stamp　of　a　British　occupation；　but　nothing　can　be　effected
in　the　arrangement　of　such　a　town　without　an　unlimited　purse　and　a
despotic　power。　It　is　almost　as　hopeless　as　London　in　the　incongruity　of
architecture；　and　the　individual　indulgence　of　independent　taste；　which
absolutely　dismays　a　stranger。　The　beautiful　Gothic　cathedral　of　the
Venetians　has　been　converted　into　a　mosque　by　the　conquerors；　and　two
exceedingly　lofty　and　thin　minarets　have　added　an　absurd　embellishment；
resembling　two　gigantic　candles　capped　by　extinguishers；　as　though　the
altar…tapers　had　been　taken　for　the　models。　The　neighbouring　church　of
St。　Nicholas　has　been　converted　into　a　granary。　In　all　Turkish　towns　the
bazaars　are　the　most　interesting　portion；　as　they　illustrate　the
commercial　and　agricultural　industries　of　the　country。　Those　of　Lefkosia
formed　a　labyrinth　of　the　usual　narrow　streets；　and　resembled　each　other
so　closely　that　it　was　difficult　to　find　the　way。　The　preparation　of
leather　from　the　first　process　of　tanning　is　exhibited　on　an　extensive
scale；　which　does　not　add　to　the　natural　sweetness　of　the　air。　Native
manufactures　for　which　the　town　is　celebrated；　that　are　more　agreeable；
may　be　purchased　at　a　moderate　price　in　the　shape　of　silk　stuffs；　and　a
variety　of　mule…harness；　pack…saddles；　and　the　capacious　double　bags　of
hair　and　wool　that；　slung　across　the　animal；　are　almost　indispensable　to
the　traveller。　There　were　a　few　shops　devoted　to　European　articles　which
were　hardly　adapted　to　the　country；　and　were　expensive　in　a　ridiculous
degree。　The　narrow　streets　were　muddy　from　the　recent　rain；　and　the
temperature　was　at　55　degrees；　but　the　inhabitants　were　sitting　at　the
various　cafes　in　the　open　air　smoking　and　drinking　their　steaming　coffee
as　though　in　summer。　From　natural　politeness　they　invariably　rose　as　we
passed　by；　and　at　one　place　I　was　immediately　furnished　with　a　string
that　I　might　measure　a　large　vine…stem　which　during　summer　must　afford　a
dense　shade。　I　found　the　main　stem　of　this　unusual　specimen　was
twenty…two　inches　in　circumference。

The　only　agreeable　walk　in　Lefkosia　is　the　circuit　of　the　ramparts；　as
the　high　elevation　admits　of　fresh　air　and　an　extensive　view。　From　this
we　looked　down　upon　numerous　gardens　well　irrigated　by　the　surplus　water
of　the　aqueduct；　and　the　remarkably　healthy　orange　and　lemon　trees　were
crowded　with　their　loads　of　ripe　fruit。　There　are　many　good　and　roomy
houses　in　the　town；　each　furnished　with　a　considerable　garden；　but　as
they　are　surrounded　with　high　walls；　it　is　difficult　to　form　an　opinion
of　their　actual　dimensions。　The　house　occupied　by　the　Chief　Commissioner
is　large　and　well　constructed；　the　staircase　and　landing　airy　and
capacious；　with　an　entrance…hall　open　at　the　extreme　end　and　well
arranged　for　the　burning　climate　during　summer。　All　houses　are　paved
with　slabs　of　gypsum；　which　abound　in　many　parts　of　the　island；　and　are
sold　at　a　remarkably　low　price；　as　the　blocks　laminate；　and　are　divided
into　sheets　of　the　required　thickness　with　a　minimum　of　labour。

The　Turkish　Pacha　（Rifat）　still　remained　at　Lefkosia；　as　he　was
responsible　for　the　transfer　of　various　movable　property　to
Constantinople。　The　interesting　Venetian　cannon　of　bronze　that　were
utterly　valueless　as　modern　weapons　had　been　conveyed　away　both　from
Lefkosia　and　Famagousta。　One　of　these　was　a　double　octagon；　or
sixteen…sided；　and　would　have　been　a　valuable　specimen　in　the　collection
at　the　Tower　of　London。　Many　of　the　curious　old　Venetian　cannon　had
recently　been　burst　into　fragments　with　dynamite；　to　save　the　trouble　of
moving　the　heavy　guns　entire。

There　can　be　little　doubt　that　the　prime　object　in　selecting　a　central
position　for　the　capital　of　Cyprus　was　a　regard　for　safety　from　any
sudden　attack；　but　upon　any　other　grounds　I　cannot　conceive　a　greater
absurdity。　The　capital　should　be　Limasol；　which　will　become　the
Liverpool　of　Cyprus。　Lefkosia　is　completely　out　of　the　commercial　route；
it　is　valueless　as　a　military　position；　and　it　offers　no　climatic
advantage；　but；　on　the　contrary；　it　is　frightfully　hot　in　the　summer
months；　and　is　secluded　from　the　more　active　portions　of　the　island。　It
IS；　simply　because　it